Wandering, But Not Lost

Glacier & Banff Day 16: Come Down

Day 16: July 12, 2025 – Girard, PA – Canton, CT

Sixteen days, over 5,000 miles, six states, three provinces, and a hundred little moments that stitched this trip into something unforgettable. The road, with all its chaos and clarity, is behind us now… but we’re not quite ready to come down. There’s a weird weight to the end of something so big. We went the distance, found meaning in the small things, and carved out a rhythm in the in-between. And now? We’re heading home. But part of us is still somewhere on a quiet stretch of prairie road, windows down, singing like no one’s listening.

We left a final duck at the St. John’s Evangelical Lutheran Church at this last stop. Rob and I took our time, enjoyed one last “camper coffee” before hitting the road one final time. The drive home was a smooth one. While the girls hung out in their bunks, Rob and I spent most of the ride home plotting future trips. Not even home and we are itching to get out there again.

I’m excited to see my kids who have been left to their own devices for two weeks – with some family and neighborly support, of course! And I’m sure our pets will want our undivided attention.

I’ll let today be today. No unpacking the camper today. No starting the laundry. Just a hot shower, comfy jammies, and my couch that is calling my name!

All that other stuff can wait. I’ve still got a few vacation hours left. And the only question running through my mind is…

Where do we go next?

Cue: Come Down by Bush — because letting go of the road takes longer than unpacking the bags.

Glacier and Banff Day 15: The Distance

Day 15: July 11, 2025 – Oakdale, WI to Girard, PA

Endless road before us—today was all about forward motion, even when circumstances tried to prevent it. We went the distance… got delayed… and then went even more distance, making this our longest travel day of the trip. It was fate (and a bit of flexible planning) that had us end the night in a quiet church parking lot.

We drove a lot today. And we spent a lot of time in the RV—not all of it actually moving. Funny how things work out. We knew this would be our longest haul and got the early start we’d hoped for after a good night’s sleep. But the moment we hit Chicago, things went sideways. The roads were awful—bumpy, chewed-up, and mid-construction for what feels like the rest of time. The last time we brought Kevin through Chicago, it was just as bad. By the time we stopped for lunch at the Indiana Welcome Center, my head was rattled from the ride.

Side note: Welcome Centers are underrated. We’ve hit a few on this trip, and they offer big parking lots, clean bathrooms, and are usually easy to access from the highway. Plus, you stumble on little gems—like the Triple-Dog-Dare statue at the Indiana Welcome Center in Hammond. Remember the scene from A Christmas Story where Flick licks the frozen pole? Hammond is actually the real-life inspiration for the fictional town of Hohman. A fun photo op and, conveniently, right next to a Wendy’s for a quick bite.

It was there that Rob started pulling stones from the RV’s front tire tread and noticed some unusual wear on the driver’s side. He was convinced it would blow out and take the Jeep with it—definitely not the kind of road drama we needed with 1,200 miles still ahead. So, we rerouted to Tire Barn in Schererville, IN, who (bless them) miraculously had our tire in stock. These roadside angels had us swapped, balanced, and back on the highway in just over an hour.

Fresh tires in place, we hit the road again… only to hit wall-to-wall traffic. And we stayed in it. For HOURS. This became one of those days—the kind we usually try to avoid but sometimes just have to survive. Even with detours, it was stop-and-go through construction zones, pothole mazes, and general highway chaos.

By early evening, we waved the white flag and paused for dinner: pancakes and microwave bacon all around. The fridge is down to bare bones now, but since the kids usually sleep through breakfast, we repurposed the morning meal for a surprisingly satisfying *breakfast-for-dinner*.

Bleary-eyed and exhausted, we finally pulled into St. John’s Evangelical Lutheran Church in Girard, PA at 11:30 PM—a full 16 hours after leaving Oakdale (even with the time change). Rob parked Kevin under a big security light, we pulled the shades, and crashed hard. The church parking lot was silent, peaceful, and just what we needed after a day of dodging barrels and burning daylight. There is a sense of accomplishment on these long days, even with the extreme exhaustion and the late arrivals. Now that this happens to us only on rare occasions, it’s not so bad. That said, I really don’t want this to happen again tomorrow.

Tomorrow… we’re home. Hard to believe. One more stretch and then our own beds!

End of Day Stats:

Mileage: 660 miles

Hours: 16

New Tires: 2

Rubber Ducks Deployed: 0 (didn’t even try)

Hippo Status: Brains officially jostled by roadwork

Cue The Distance by Cake—because today was all about going, pushing, crawling, inching… and getting there, one orange barrel at a time.

Glacier and Banff Day 14: In the Meantime

Day 14: July 10, 2025 – Jamestown, North Dakota to Oakdale, Wisconsin

We’re deep in that in-between space: not quite on vacation anymore, not quite back to real life. There’s a quiet kind of gratitude tucked into these tired miles, along with a little wishful thinking about future trips. Home is just over the horizon—we’re ready, but in the meantime, we’re still rolling.

Today’s drive included a stop in Fargo, ND. Known for its bone-chilling winters, warm hospitality, and unmistakable Midwestern accent (“You betcha!”), Fargo is also a hub for agricultural research, tech startups, and manufacturing. It’s home to cultural gems like the Plains Art Museum and Bonanzaville (how I wished we had time to visit!). But for those of us who came of age in the ’90s, Fargo holds pop culture fame for something else entirely: a woodchipper.

Yes—THAT woodchipper! The actual movie prop from Fargo resides in the Fargo-Moorhead Visitors Center, complete with fake leg, pile of wood, and Marge Gunderson-style trapper hats for tourists to wear in photos. There’s even a replica outside the center. It’s a quirky and fun roadside attraction—even if the film wasn’t actually shot in Fargo. Still, totally worth it.

Continuing east, our next stop was in Alexandria, MN, a nod to the area’s Scandinavian roots. There we met Big Ole—a 28-foot-tall Viking who stands proudly as a symbol of Alexandria’s Norse heritage. Originally built for the 1964–65 World’s Fair, he found a home in Alexandria shortly afterward. Over the years, Big Ole has had quite the saga: he’s been burned, toppled by wind, and crushed by a snow-laden roof. These days, he stands safely in a lakeside park near Lake Agnes. It was a fun and unexpected stop on a beautiful Minnesota afternoon.

Tonight, we landed at a KOA Journey in Oakdale, WI. Though we would’ve loved a walk after a long stretch on the road, the mosquitoes were relentless. Instead, Marlie, Rob and I coaxed Alyssa down from her bunk for a few rounds of Rack-O before bed. It was our last night at a campground before reaching home. One final stop at a Harvest Host tomorrow… then it’s back to Connecticut.

Look how small Kevin seems between these tractor trailers!

End of Day Stats:
Mileage: 620 miles
Rubber Ducks Deployed: 2 (one for the bison, one for Big Ole!)
Movie Memorabilia Visited: priceless
Rounds of Rack-O: 6

Cue: In the Meantime by Spacehog—dreamy, weird, and oddly comforting. The perfect soundtrack for this glazed-donut, post-trip haze.

Glacier and Banff Day 13: All the Small Things

Day 13: July 9, 2025 – Moose Jaw, Saskatchewan to Jamestown, North Dakota

We left the wide-open spaces of Canada behind and crossed back into the U.S., trading kilometers for miles and maple leaves for stars and stripes. It was a day of windshield time, grain silos, and horizon-chasing. Not fast, not glamorous, but steady, determined, and filled with the kind of momentum that only a good road trip can deliver.

For a travel day, this one was jam-packed with unexpected fun and delightful little surprises. Around mid-morning, we reached the Canada/U.S. border at North Portal, ND and officially re-entered the States—but not before a final stop at the duty-free store to spend the last of our Canadian dollars and loonies ($1 coins). We left with a Canada t-shirt and a bag of Cheezies (highly recommended by the cashier). If you haven’t tried them, they’re like Canadian Cheetos—extra crunchy with a bold cheese flavor. A+ snack.

Once again, North Dakota didn’t disappoint. If you’re sleeping on visiting North Dakota—big mistake! We’ve had more fun here than we ever expected. In the tiny town of Kenmare, we pulled off for lunch and accidentally discovered The Danish Mill. Built in 1902 by a Danish immigrant, the windmill originally operated 11 miles outside of town until 1917 before becoming a granary. It was moved to its current spot in Kenmare’s Town Center in 1959 (population: 914). You can go inside, climb to the second level, see the two 1,800 lb grindstones, and even peek up to the highest level via a wooden ladder. The park is surrounded by charming little shops and tidy homes—it’s the kind of unplanned stop that makes travel so special. Who visits Kenmare? More people should. It was a delight.

From there, we made our way to tonight’s Harvest Host: the North American Bison Discovery Center. Though the museum was closed by the time we arrived, we lucked out—there was a small herd of bison grazing in the nearby field! In addition to the real deal, we also visited Dakota Thunder, the “Largest Buffalo in the World.” This massive concrete-and-steel statue stands 26 feet tall, stretches 46 feet long, and weighs 60 tons. It’s part of Frontier Town, a living museum next to the Discovery Center. Seeing it up close was both impressive and fun.

Just as we settled into the RV to watch the new John Cena movie (thank you, Starlink—and don’t judge; after a full day of driving, a little mindless entertainment is well-earned), the sky turned from a glowing red-and-orange sunset to an ominous greenish-black. The wind picked up, lightning flashed like a strobe light, and the hail started – suddenly Stutsman County was under a severe thunderstorm watch.

We quickly shifted into emergency mode, making an evacuation plan in case of a tornado. We pulled in the RV slide and decided our shelter would be under the museum’s deck if we spotted a funnel cloud or heard sirens. Being on a hill eased flood concerns, but high winds, hail, and falling trees were a real threat. For about an hour, we huddled in the RV, monitoring the weather, gathering supplies, and preparing for a fast exit if needed.

Then, just like that, the storm passed—leaving only a steady drizzle behind. We exhaled, powered the movie back up, and carried on with our night.

An exciting end to our first day back Stateside!

End of Day Stats:
Mileage: 440 miles
International Borders Crossed: 1
Rubber Ducks Deployed: 1 (Danish Mill)
Bison Seen: 1 small herd; 1 massive concrete statue

Cue: All the Small Things by Blink-182—because it’s the little, quirky, totally unexpected moments that stick with you the most.

Glacier and Banff Day 12: Nothing Else Matters

Day 12: July 8, 2025 – Banff, Alberta to Moose Jaw, Saskatchewan

Beginning the long road home hits like a gut punch—the kind that feels both inevitable and a little heartbreaking. With every mile eastward, the mountains faded in the rearview mirror, replaced by rolling hills and endless skies. It was a quiet kind of day—reflective, steady, and full of that familiar post-adventure ache. But as we made our way toward Moosejaw, there was peace in the motion and comfort in the company. The trip is winding down, but the memories are etched in deep. On this road, nothing else matters.

We officially began the long journey home today. This stretch of the trip can easily feel long and a little depressing if you’re not intentional with how you spend it. We made sure to build in plenty of time for the return so the days wouldn’t feel rushed or heavy. There’s so much to take in if you’re willing to slow down and look for it—and that’s exactly what we did. Lots of stops (just pulling off on the side of the road – not too many roadside attractions on the Great Plains of Canada), lots of time to stretch, sightsee, snack, and settle into the rhythm of the road.

Our first travel day brought us across the wide-open plains of midwestern Canada. Salt flats, coal mining operations, and fields of grain filled the landscape. The roads were flat, smooth, and often empty—we went hours at times without passing another vehicle. Near Medicine Hat, we saw a large metal tipi from the highway. This was originally built for the 1988 Calgary Olympics and relocated to Medicine Hat to mark the Saamis Archeological Site. Around dinnertime, we pulled off for a classic A&W stop, grabbing burgers and frosty mugs of root beer.

We rolled into Moosejaw, Saskatchewan by early evening, with enough time to make a grocery run at the Canadian Superstore (think: the Walmart of Canada). Grocery stores are one of my favorite road trip stops—I love checking out local brands and picking up a few surprises. This round’s haul included ketchup chips (delicious), purple kernel popcorn (just like regular popcorn, but with cool-colored kernels), and a few gallons of water to get us through the next few travel days.

At the last minute, we swapped our original Harvest Host stay for a KOA Journey right in Moosejaw. With the Jeep still out of commission, we didn’t want the hassle of detaching it in a parking lot. No complaints about the change—it meant long, hot showers and no need to run the generator. (My hearing has taken a real hit between the roar of Kevin’s cab and the generator on nights we’re boondocking.)

Before settling in for the night, we took a quick lap around the no-frills campground. Alyssa and Marlie were introduced to some “old-school” playground equipment: a half-broken merry-go-round, a springless metal seesaw, and a pair of swings—one of which was missing the seat, leaving only the exposed metal frame (which promptly ripped the zipper off Alyssa’s shorts). Rob and I gave a crash course in how to use this retro (read: deadly) playground setup and stood by nervously while the girls experimented, crossing our fingers that no one would need a tetanus shot or leave with their teeth in a bag. Good times.

End of Day Stats:
Mileage: 545 miles
Provinces Visited: 2
Canadian Businesses Visited: 2

Cue: Nothing Else Matters by Metallica – for a leg of the trip that was all about slowing down, letting go of the rush, and being present in the moment on the long road home.

Glacier and Banff Day 11: No Rain

Day 11: July 7, 2025 – Moraine Lake & Lake Louise, Banff NP

Some days are pure sunshine—where everything feels easy, light, and dreamlike. Today was that kind of day. We wandered through postcard-worthy views at Lake Louise and Moraine Lake, surrounded by water so blue it hardly seemed real. No rush, no pressure—just beauty everywhere we turned.

The day unfolded slowly, and the morning was absolutely perfect. While the girls slept in after our late-night visit to “Lake Louise After Dark,” Rob and I snuck off for a morning date: breakfast and a ride on the Summer Gondola at the Lake Louise Ski Area.

The 14-minute trip up Mount Whitehorn offered sweeping views of the valley, and in the distance, a glimpse of Lake Louise. As we climbed higher, we spotted a black bear scurrying into the woods—not a grizzly, but still a thrill to see wildlife wandering the mountain slopes.

If you squint really hard, you can see the bear in the top right corner near the woods.

These quiet morning escapes are some of my favorite travel moments. Even when we’re just sitting silently, breathing in the cool air and soaking in the views, I feel grounded. It reminds me that Rob and I share something rare—something enduring and absolutely worth the work it takes to maintain. These were the thoughts running through my mind as we reached 6,896 feet. I like to imagine Rob was feeling similarly sentimental, though let’s be honest—he was probably scanning the horizon for grizzlies. Either way, I’ll take it. I love our little morning jaunts.

By now, you’ve probably noticed—we don’t do many tours. We like to move at our own pace and avoid the large crowds. But since Moraine Lake no longer allows personal vehicles, and Parks Canada shuttles were sold out, we booked the next best thing: a bare-bones Moraine/Louise half-day tour out of Banff with a slightly questionable local company. I mean, all tours go to the same two lakes, right? Why one costs $174 per person and another just $40 is a mystery—until you see the bus. Think: straight out of a 1970s road trip movie.

But what the bus lacked in aesthetics, our tour guide Edward more than made up for in personality. A former Parks employee, Edward knew all the hidden paths, best photo ops, and fastest routes to the scenic overlooks. He kept us laughing, handed out cookies and cold water, and even offered to personally guide anyone who wanted a little extra insight at each stop.

(And yes, we drove all the way back to Banff this morning even though our campground was practically next door to Lake Louise. Why? Well, the ski area shuttle was fully booked and we had no idea when we planned this that “Banff” to “Lake Louise” would be a 45-minute drive… in the wrong direction. Tell me you didn’t do your research without telling me you didn’t do your research.)

Have you ever looked at a photo and thought, This has to be photoshopped? That’s Moraine Lake. Its striking turquoise color comes from glacial rock flour—fine sediment that reflects sunlight and creates an unreal shade of blue. We climbed the famous “Rock Pile” with a few hundred of our closest friends and snapped what might be the most surreal family photo of the trip. Edward treated us like models, directing us to pose one way and then the other.

Though the cafe was closed by the time we got there, we wandered along the lake’s edge, away from the crowds. We waded in the icy water until it physically hurt. “Cold” doesn’t quite cover it—Moraine Lake hovers around 41°F. Swimming isn’t encouraged due to the fragile ecosystem (and also, hypothermia), but canoeing and kayaking are fair game. A few species of trout and whitefish call it home.

Next, Lake Louise. Also stunning, but far more commercial. The Fairmont Chateau sits right on its shores. For a mere $2,000 a night (year-round), you can wake up to luxury and alpine views, whether your vibe is spa treatments or cross-country skiing. The grounds were immaculate—and absolutely swarming with people. I took a solo walk to escape the crowds while Rob and the girls snagged a bench to take in the scene.

Like Moraine, swimming at Lake Louise is strongly discouraged unless you’re aiming for a polar plunge. But hey, back home people pay big bucks for an ice bath.

On the way back, Edward gave us a bonus stop at one of Banff’s best scenic overlooks. As we pulled up, a small herd of Bighorn sheep trotted by—an unexpected treat to round out the afternoon. All in all, our little bargain tour turned out to be a win.

We didn’t have much time or energy left for exploring the Town of Banff, but the energy there is noticeably different from Jasper. Banff feels more upscale, with fancy shops and nightlife. Jasper’s charm is its local, laid-back feel. Both deserve a longer visit next time.

Tomorrow, we head back to Calgary—fingers crossed the Jeep is still parked where we left it and we don’t have to bribe a Mountie to spring it from impound!

End of Day Stats:
Mileage: 115
Impossibly blue lakes visited: 2
Rubber Ducks Deployed: I’m not even going to say it.
Filters Applied: 0

Cue: No Rain by Blind Melon—because today was sunshine in every sense.

Glacier and Banff Day 10: Today

Day 10: July 6, 2025 — Icefields Parkway: Lake Louise, Banff NP → Jasper, Jasper NP

Today felt infinite. We drove the Icefields Parkway—one of the most stunning stretches of road on the planet—through a dreamscape of turquoise lakes, ancient glaciers, and towering peaks that seem too beautiful to be real: bright, raw, and a little wild. It was a day to be fully alive—to stop at every scenic pull-off, to breathe in glacier-cooled air pouring through open windows. Today was the greatest.

You’d think that by this point in the trip we’d be over long drives—but no, we pushed on. After stashing the Jeep at a school near Calaway Park Campground (please, please, please let it still be there when we return on Tuesday!), we caravanned north in our new blue rental to the Lake Louise Hard-Sided Campground in the heart of Banff National Park. Another hour of uninterrupted audiobook time? Yes, please.

If Glacier National Park was impressive, Banff is best described in one word: vast. The Canadian Rockies rise high and wide, their snow-capped peaks thick with ancient glacial ice. Morning mist still clung to the mountaintops as we arrived. When we booked this leg of the trip, we’d done exactly zero research on Banff, having spent all our planning energy trying to crack Glacier’s reservation system. I knew I wanted to see Lake Louise, Moraine Lake, and drive the Icefields Parkway to Jasper—but did we understand where any of these places were in relation to our campground? Nope. Did we grasp just how far apart the towns of Banff, Lake Louise, and Jasper actually are? Also no.

Good thing there was plenty to look at.

Entering Banff. Reminder not to feed the wildlife!

Our Lake Louise campsite was spacious and level—definitely an upgrade from our slanted patch at Two Medicine. Though the campground was supposedly full, it felt nearly empty when we pulled in around 11:00 a.m. A quick lunch later, and we were off to explore the Icefields Parkway—a 141-mile stretch of winding mountain road connecting Lake Louise and Jasper. While 288 miles round-trip sounds like a haul, the day was broken up by stops at glacial-blue lakes, rushing streams, dramatic overlooks, and jaw-dropping vistas. With no plan and no pressure, we pulled over wherever we felt like it—stretching our legs, snapping photos, and craning our necks for wildlife. (Still no grizzly sightings… but statistically, with just 65 in all of Banff’s 1.6 million acres, it’s not surprising. Jasper has about 100 grizzlies spread across 2.7 million acres.) Incidentally, the Icefields Parkway is definitely where all the RVs from the Lake Louise Campground were spending the day. Unbelievable that people would choose to drive their motorhome on mountain switchbacks, but there is no shortage of them – and about half of them are rentals! No thank you. Blue rental for the win!

Roughly halfway up the Parkway, where Banff and Jasper National Parks meet, lies the Columbia Icefield: ancient, immense, and spectacular. Six glaciers make up this icy behemoth, covering 125 square miles and plunging as deep as 1,200 feet. While you can walk on the glacier, you’ll need proper gear and a guide or you could fall into a crevasse – given our track record on this trip, we decided not to tempt fate.. Instead, we opted to view it from the Visitor Centre, where a portion of the icefield is visible—and the air is strikingly colder than the rest of the Parkway. Cold enough, in fact, that I busted out a winter hat. One day, I’d love to return and walk on that glacier. For now, watching the massive Ice Explorer vehicles rumble across it was thrilling enough.

About an hour outside of Jasper, we drove through areas scorched by last summer’s wildfires. Over 79,000 acres burned after multiple lightning strikes and strong winds fanned the flames. More than 25,000 people—residents and tourists—were evacuated. The damage is still visible, but signs of life are everywhere: green shoots, wildflowers, and resilient grasses are reclaiming the charred forest floor. Along one stretch, a family of elk grazed peacefully by the road.

Jasper is a gem tucked into the heart of its namesake park. The first thing you notice is the town’s laid-back vibe—nothing fussy, just access to hiking, rafting, water sports, and epic wildlife viewing. Its streets are lined with restaurants, shops, and very happy dogs. It’s also a hub for both freight and passenger rail, offering cross-country service and regional tours. Jasper buzzes in the summer, and come winter, skiers flock to Marmot Basin. For a small town, it feels full of life—even as it continues to recover from last year’s fire.

Since it doesn’t get dark until nearly 11 p.m. in northern Alberta, we drove back to Lake Louise while it was still light. We stopped to take pictures of the moon rising over the mountains—and finally spotted a black bear! (A small one, but still adorable.) Rob insisted we drive down to Lake Louise for a sneak peek, so we wandered to the lakeshore. Under the night sky, the lake looked like a flat, black mirror—not super impressive at night. Tomorrow, we’ll see it in the daylight.

An amazing shot of the curtest little black bear.

Can’t wait!

End of Day Stats:
Mileage: 454 kilometers (282 miles)
National Parks Visited: 2
Rubber Ducks Deployed: 0 (I’m the WORST.)
Oohs & Ahhs!: Too many to count

Cue: Today by Smashing Pumpkins—for a stunningly beautiful and emotional day on the Icefields Parkway.

Glacier and Banff Day 9: Come As You Are

Day 9: July 5, 2025, Sweetgrass, MT → Calgary, AB

No reservations, no dress codes, no pretense—it’s the legendary Calgary Stampede, where grit, dust, and denim meet livestock and fried dough. Come as you are… and don’t forget your cowboy hat.

Part two of our vacation began in Canada. We crossed the border easily after declaring no tobacco, alcohol, or firearms. (It’s a good thing they don’t judge you on appearance because the amount of bedhead in this camper was at a threat level midnight.) We did admit to the bear spray, two bananas, and a half a quart of strawberries, but the border agent gave us the green light, and we throttled on toward Enterprise Rent-A-Car, where I left the lot in a Nissan Versa with a solid 40 minutes of solo audiobook time. Not a lot of alone time on this trip, so a stretch with the new Hunger Games prequel felt luxurious… and quiet. As fun as it is to ride in Kevin, she is one loud mama-jama.

We rolled into Calaway Campground and RV Park on the outskirts of Calgary, three vehicles deep. Every site, tent space, and spare patch of grass was packed with campers—it seems people come from everywhere for the Calgary Stampede. We decided to join the crowd.

But not before trading in the Versa for a rental with working turn signals (at this point, we expected the unexpected, so this was a mere blip on the radar). Enter: the electric-blue Mitsubishi Odyssey. Hail-pocked, with a hole in the bumper and a touchscreen that worked on nearly 75% of the surface —completely on brand for this trip.

The Stampede is Canada’s ten-day premier agricultural festival, affectionately known as “The Greatest Outdoor Show on Earth.” It draws over a million visitors annually and features one of the world’s largest rodeos, a parade, midway, stage shows, concerts, agricultural competitions, chuckwagon racing, and First Nations exhibitions. And it all takes place right in the heart of downtown Calgary. If Disney World and The Big E had a baby, it’d be the Stampede. It doesn’t matter who you are or where you’re from—at the Stampede, you’re a cowboy.

Outfits ranged from broken-in Wranglers and Ariat boots to sequined miniskirts and raffia cowboy hats with cheetah-print bands. Anything goes. First Nations culture was also deeply honored—tipis were set up, pow-wows were held, and Indigenous arts, crafts, and traditions were proudly shared.

Stampede Entrance – coliseum where Shania performed

We happened to visit on the Stampede’s second full day—the first had been rained out. As luck would have it, Canada’s National Treasure, Shania Twain, was headlining that night. The people-watching? Elite. The crowds only grew as the day went on. We caught the rodeo and watched pony races, bronco riding, and steer wrestling. The competitors had names like Stran, Riggin, Lefty, and Gus. It was pure rodeo: lots of beer, boots, horses, and cows. And a whole lot of fun.

After we’d had our fill of livestock and fried food, we headed back to the campground for laundry and laziness. It was a good day—stress-free, carefree, and the perfect lead-in to the next chapter: Banff National Park.

End of Day Stats:
Mileage: 210 miles
States/Provinces Today: MT → AB
Rubber Ducks Deployed: 0 (honestly, we forgot)
Cowboy hats counted: nobody knows

Rental Cars: 2 Cue:Come As You Are by Nirvana—because everyone, from real ranchers to wide-eyed tourists, city-slickers to rodeo legends, shows up just as they are, and finds themselves part of something real.

Glacier and Banff Day 8: Are You Gonna Go My Way?

July 4, 2025 – Two Medicine Campground, East Glacier National Park to Sweetgrass, MT (U.S./Canada border)

We may be lacking in cars and lacking in sleep, but spontaneity? That’s alive and well. Plans shifted and a national holiday played into some unexpected complications. But, when one border crossing closes, another one is a full three hours away. Something has to go our way!

July 4th in the National Parks should be a cause for true celebration! What’s more American than exploring the wild west and grilling out over a campfire? Though no one wanted to admit it this morning, we were all a bit tense and unsure about the progression of our vacation now that we were without the Jeep. Not having a towed vehicle would make our visit to Banff infinitely more complex. Luckily, we had a day around Two Medicine planned, so we took our time getting ready and making our way down to Two Medicine Lake, where we had scheduled a boat ride for the early afternoon—eager to explore the park from our campground.

Before our boat ride, we each broke off for a bit of adventuring. Rob and Alyssa tried their hand at fishing in Two Medicine Lake, near our camper. Marlie and I canoed across the lake and took in the amazing views from the middle of the water. I’m a pretty decent kayaker but a hopeless canoer. We were amazing on the way out—wind at our backs—but got spun and pushed around pretty dramatically on the return. No one capsized, though, so we’re counting it as a win.

Around 12:30, we checked in for our 1:00 boat ride on the Sinopah, the passenger boat that ferries hikers across Two Medicine Lake to the more remote trailheads. Rob and Alyssa didn’t make the boat, but Marlie and I forged ahead. The ride was short, maybe 15 minutes, but our guide, Abi, packed it with stories and information.

Two Medicine is considered the most sacred part of Glacier by the Blackfeet Tribe. According to legend, a wise elder woman selected the site of a medicine hut each year, but one year, two women were chosen—each building their own hut on opposite sides of the river. Thus, the name: Two Medicine.

Abi also shared the legend of Rising Wolf, a white trapper who became part of the Blackfeet tribe, and Sinopah, daughter of Chief Lone Walker. Rising Wolf, so named for the way he stretched and growled like a wolf upon waking, wanted to marry Sinopah but was terrified of her father’s two pet grizzly bears. On the day of the wedding, Lone Walker spat into Rising Wolf’s hand and placed it over the bears’ snouts, so they would recognize his scent. What a wedding gift! Today, all three names—Rising Wolf, Lone Walker, and Sinopah—are immortalized in the names of the towering peaks that ring the lake.

We picked an easy two-mile hike to Twin Falls. Abi offered a guided hike up to the falls, sharing insight on local plant life and wildlife. We stayed with the group for a bit but eventually peeled off to avoid the bottleneck of eager hikers.

Bear Grass is everywhere in this part of the park—odd, tall, cottony tufts that make the terrain feel vaguely like the forest moon of Endor. Abi told us Lewis and Clark thought bears ate it (they don’t—deer do), hence the name. The meadows were full of wildflowers. We crossed narrow bridges and a wobbly suspension bridge that added just enough thrill. The forest felt storybook-perfect. We reached the falls, dipped our hands into the frigid water, and made our way back down in time for the return boat ride.

On the way back across the lake, the group spotted a mountain goat and a grizzly high on the ridgeline of Rising Wolf. I wish I could say I spotted the grizzly myself, but I didn’t. Still, pretty thrilling to know it was up there, watching.

Back at the camper, we had some tough decisions to make. We didn’t drive nearly 40 hours to turn back now. We could tow the Jeep even if it didn’t run, and if need be, we could drive around in Kevin. Not ideal, but doable. Our dreamy vision of a July 4th barbecue was quickly drowned by rain, so we pivoted.

We did the only logical thing: packed up Kevin, and left Two Medicine, heading to Browning to pick up the Jeep (still broken) from the tow yard and continued on to Calgary. Why not? If we crossed the border tonight, we could get to the campground early and be ready for a full day at the Calgary Stampede tomorrow. Long hot showers and laundry were calling. I even reserved a rental car online so we’d be mobile in Banff. Things were looking up.

Until they weren’t. We picked up the Jeep, hitched it up in ankle-deep mud, and drove to the Del Bonita border crossing around 8:00 PM—only to find it closed. Of course. A holiday. Because of course. The nearest open border was in Sweetgrass, nearly three hours away, and the backroads were a carnival ride of bumps, gravel, and washboard. It’s likely little bits of Kevin have been scattered across Montana’s finest county roads.

So, no, we didn’t cross into Canada on July 4th. We had not one but two campground reservations we didn’t use and ended up half-parked in a ditch next to a row of idling tractor-trailers, about a hundred yards from the Canadian border. I mean, if you don’t spend at least one night at a truck stop, questioning your personal safety, have you really taken a road trip?

It wasn’t the day we planned, but it pulled us out of our self-pity and pumped a little adrenaline into our veins. Tomorrow, the Stampede… YAHOO!

End of Day Stats:
Mileage: 65 miles to one border and then 75 miles to a different border
States Today: MT → MT
Rubber Ducks Deployed: 0
Hippos: Giving haughty looks of derision
Wildlife Spotted: One long-eared jackrabbit at the Del Bonita border crossing, mountain goat, grizzly (ok, I didn’t spot it, but it was there, I swear)

Cue: Are You Gonna Go My Way? by Lenny Kravitz, for when the path ahead makes no sense but you go anyway.

Glacier and Banff Day 7: Semi-Charmed Life

Day 7: July 3, 2025, Many Glacier, East Glacier National Park

Rob lays on the 30 gallon water bladder to force water out of the bag and into Kevin’s water tank. 7 AM

Was today charming? Sort of. Was it a mess? Also yes. We nursed blisters, laughed too hard, hung out with a moose or two, and nearly had to hitchhike back to camp. But honestly? We wouldn’t change a thing (well, maybe one thing). This is the semi-charmed life we signed up for.

Many Glacier is the lusher, greener, more wildlife-rich side of Glacier National Park: think Jurassic Park. It’s also less commercial than the western side—and this season, significantly under construction. With no camping allowed in the Many Glacier Campground (thanks to water system and road upgrades), access is very limited.

Turn off and parking for Many Glacier shuttle

Unless you’re staying at the lodge, hopping a Red Jammer tour, have boat tickets, or scored shuttle passes—you’re out of luck. Luckily, we landed shuttle tickets between 9–10 AM.

Running on blistered feet and determination (with a side of moleskin and Band-Aids), we dragged ourselves out of the camper after yesterday’s escapades, ready for what we hoped would be a low-key nature walk.

Spoiler: It wasn’t. (But,you probably already guessed that if you are not new to this blog.)

From the impressive, lederhosen-staffed Many Glacier Lodge (straight out of the Swiss Alps), we consulted a park ranger who suggested a trail labeled Green (easy)—a 2.3-mile hike to Redrock Falls with only 600 feet of elevation. Perfect!

Except… that distance was from the actual trailhead, which we were three miles away from. Whoops. By the time we realized this, we were too far in—and too charmed—to turn back. Our “easy” hike turned into a 10-mile trek. But what we got in return? Pure magic.

List of trails accessible from Many Glacier Lodge

Down a spur trail to Fishercap Lake, Rob spotted a bull moose, standing shoulder-deep, dunking for lake greens like it was a salad buffet. Calm, regal, and wildly photogenic, he let us gawk and snap from a respectful distance. One moose. Four humans. At least 200 photos. Zero regrets.

Redrock Lake was a stunner—glacial blue and pristine. At the top of Redrock Falls, Rob waded in, Alyssa and Marlie discovered a snake (no thank you), and I soaked my sore feet in glacial runoff. Cold therapy meets mild screaming.

On our way back? Moose encore! This time, two bull moose snacking side by side. Another 150 photos later, we felt like we’d stumbled into a wildlife documentary. Quiet, peaceful, and nearly empty of people—Many Glacier had officially soared to the top of the vacation list.

Back at the Jeep and dreaming of s’mores and an easy evening… cue the chaos. Twenty minutes from camp, the Jeep erupted in a loud bang, smoke poured from the hood, and the dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree. Rob coasted us safely to a grassy patch outside the Kyiyo Mercantile in Browning, MT.

Cell service? Nonexistent.
Panic level? Medium-high.
Mercantile angels? 100% real.

They called Coleen and AJ from A & C Towing, who showed up within 30 minutes, loaded up our poor Toad, and offered to store it for the long weekend. Did I mention it’s the 4th of July weekend and no mechanics are open until Monday?

While Alyssa and Marlie snacked and made friends with the shop dog, Rob and I made the call: salvage what’s left of the evening and head back to Two Medicine in the back of Coleen’s Chevy Sliverado. No harsh words. No drama. Just quiet acceptance—and maybe a touch of shock-induced numbness.

We were doing fine until at the Two Medicine entrance, Rob realized we left the camper keys in the Jeep’s dashboard compartment. Thirty miles away. Back in Browning.

It’s not the good times that define a relationship. It’s how you act in moments like these when you are up against a wall, faced with adversity and filled with a blinding rage that really defines a couple’s fortitude.

Let’s just say… it was a good thing I was in the back seat.

End of Day Stats:

Mileage Hiked: 10ish miles

States Visited: Awe, joy, disbelief, shock

Rubber Ducks Deployed: 1 (Many Glacier Lodge lobby)

Wildlife Seen: deer, snake, and moose (not sure if I mentioned this)

Cue: “Semi-Charmed Life” by Third Eye Blind for a perfect blend of chaos and charm.