Some days you need a forced time out. And yesterday was that day.
Between the sunrise trek up Cadillac Mountain and the queasy morning of whale watching, coupled with the most fresh air our family has breathed for months, we were wiped out. Rob and I slept until 9:30 AM – that’s unheard of. (We are no longer the good sleepers we once were.). The kids began to sir around 10:00 and we had a slow, easy morning of pancakes, fresh fruit, sausages, and coffee while the cool breeze fluttered through the windows.
I read a couple of chapters of my book in my rocking chair and watch Rob and Marlie head out to the beach to try their hand at crabbing. Slowly, we came to life, taking advantage of the gorgeous weather, the quiet campground, and a day without a plan in the world. My mother always hated a down day on vacation. It was always GO, GO, GO – taking advantage of every last millisecond of vacation. As an educator with precious few days of summer, I completely understand this point of view and up until recently, I also subscribed to this philosophy. However, I have come to relish a slow, sweet day to recover my energy, protect my peace, and be in the moment. Sometimes my kids don’t recognize this new version of me, but they are also learning to take vacation in stride and go with the flow. It’s good for them to not have to see me as a crazed, uptight micromanager and to settle into an easy rhythm of relaxation. What a change to come back from vacation well rested instead of needing a vacation to recover from vacation.
If you think six people in a camper sounds cozy, you are partially right. Basically, we are six (nearly) adult-sized people, and while, technically, this RV can sleep 10, it would be a terrible mistake to sleep that many people in here. The only way to politely describe the interior of the camper after a few days would be “lived in.” Frankly, it looks as though there was a struggle. It’s no one’s fault. We all just have STUFF: six water bottles, six phones, six chargers, six sets of sneakers, six sets of flip flops/Crocs, and so on. Sometimes it’s nice to just take a beat and put some things away. I sacrificed a trip to Tracey’s for ice cream to wipe down all our surfaces, put away clutter and vacuum (yes, we have a camper vacuum). The twenty minutes of quiet was just enough to recharge my battery and I felt ready to take on the afternoon having gotten my camper life in order again. All was right with the world.
We decided on a fun vacation activity for the evening, just to get out of the campground – mini-golf! Who doesn’t love the Pirate’s Cove? We drove towards Bar Harbor and selected the Blackbeard’s Challenge Course. I try to tamp down my competitive spirit during these outings, but it’s not easy. It’s really such an unattractive quality -definitely inherited from my Dad’s side of the family. Rob and I are pretty much equals when it comes to mini-golf. We are usually within 1-2 strokes of one another. Don’t let Rob make you think I am the only one who wants to win – he is also very competitive and we exchanged some playful barbs over the 18 holes. In the end, I lost. I choked on the last hole. Nevertheless, a good time was had by all and we headed to find a quick bite to eat.
Next time 😦Our crew!
After a couple of pizzas, breadsticks, and salads at Pat’s Pizza in Bar Harbor, we headed into Acadia back to Thunder Hole to see if our timing would lend itself to hearing a louder roar. It’s tough to tell if the sound was stronger than the other night, but the twilight hour found lights dancing off the water and a refreshing seabreeze coming off the waves. The evening sea was strangely calm – no swells, which also makes for quieter waters. With darkness fast approaching, we continued along the Park Loop Road in Acadia, heading back to the campground. You must observe the speed limit in the parks, and, really, on any of the back roads between Acadia and our campground. Between twilight and nighttime, there are deer that appear very suddenly – bolting across the street, grazing on the side of the road, standing in a field, or even just ambling down the side of the road. These are fairly big white-tailed deer with sweet faces and big brown eyes. Acadia is full of deer, but not moose. We were hopeful to see a moose in Acadia, but the locals say that there is not enough space for moose in the area, so a sighting would be rare.
Not the thunderous noise I expected, but there is a deep gurgle… maybe next time, Thunder Hole!
On a whim, we stopped at Otter Cliff Overlook which offered a clear view of the coastline and some huge rocks to climb! Marlie and Alyssa climbed up the rocks over the cliff for a better, higher view, while a mouse ran over Amaya’s foot and Kai tracked it into its hole. Surprisingly, there were several other groups of late-night visitors to Otter Cliff – people making one last stop before heading back to their hotels, cabins, or campgrounds. It’s wonderful to see the amount of people enjoying Acadia, out walking or climbing, exploring and discovering. I wished we had more time to adventure down the path along the sea, but the dark crept in and when that last bit of light is snuffed from the sky, it is absolutely pitch black.
Otter Cliff OverlookAmaya – staying away from the miceKai rooting out the micePath at Otter CliffSunset vista over the mountainsAlyssa atop the CliffAlyssa and Marlie at Otter CliffAcadia after darkSo dark…
Tomorrow is July 4th – a great day to continue exploring Acadia. We haven’t done a longer hike or seen a lighthouse yet. Today was good for the soul – a day to regroup and plan for the final days of our vacation – but tomorrow, it’s game on again.
The world has seen numerous notable maritime disasters. Remembering The Sultana, The Titanic, and recently, the Ever Given may give you pause before booking that Carribean cruise. And then there was the 8:30 AM Bar Harbor Whale Watch out of Frenchman’s Bay on July 2, 2024.
The day started out as a top ten weather day. The sun shone high in the sky. Everyone got themselves dressed, fed, appropriately caffeinated and into the car by 7:15 with extra sweatshirts and hats. I had packed a bag of snacks, water, Dramamine and Sea Bands (acupressure bands for motion sickness) and shorts for what would surely be a warm afternoon strolling around Bar Harbor.
Parking this early in the morning was a breeze and we quickly secured a spot in the lot adjacent to the dock. The whole clan queued up, posing for the obligatory group photo behind a life preserver, and boarded the boat, an AtlantiCat catamaran, with about 200 people, a diverse crowd in age and ethnicity.
We chose seats in the lower cabin, two rows of four facing each other across a narrow dining table. The seats were close enough to the bathrooms and the snack bar, but also perfectly positioned to see outside both sets of windows for the incidental whale sighting on our way out to open water. We were excited about seeing all sorts of marine life our on-board naturalist described for us. Besides whales – humpback and minke most likely, we could potentially see sharks, puffins, gulls, terns, seals, harbor porpoises, and dolphins. It was even rumored that there could be both a blue whale and a great white shark in the area. Thrilling!
Happier times – pre-whale watch
Amaya and Kai had both been on an amazing whale watch with me at least ten years ago and were eager to repeat the experience. We knew what to expect from the motion of the boat, and where to sit and focus our eyes as to minimize seasickness. An hour before leaving the dock, we all took Dramamine and placed our SeaBands on our wrists according to packaged directions. Rob assured me that he, Alyssa, and Marlie did not get seasick and did not need any interventions. I first knew we were in trouble when the catamaran hit the first swell, leaving me with a flutter in my belly similar to a feeling I’ve gotten on theme park rides. Not more than 15 minutes had passed when I realized Amaya had turned gray and was staring slackjawed into the middle of the table. Before I could ask her how she felt, she bolted toward the restroom, grabbing an envelope with a motion sickness bag inside it.
While we waited for her return, Rob and the girls explored the boat and I switched my position over to face the forward motion of the boat. Riding backwards never did me any good. No sooner had Amaya returned, than Kai also began to look a bit green around the gills. He was chewing gum frantically, his eyes glued to the horizon visible out the front windows, and he was so quiet.
Not feeling so hot
Looking around at the people at the tables all around us, I noticed at least one of the occupants in each group being tended by someone else in their travel party. To our right, a small boy of about six years old slumped in his chair clutching a cup of ginger ale and profusely vomiting into the motion sickness bag held by his mother. I heard more retching sounds from the left and noticed one of the twenty-somethings in the group with her head halfway in her motion sickness bag. Crew members hustled and bustled around the cabin with spray bottles of strong smelling cleaner and paper towels, wiping up sick from tables, chairs, and floors. The toddler at the table behind us played with his parents, only to be interrupted with bouts of vomiting before resuming play.
Do you remember the scene in The Goonies where Chunk is being interrogated by the Fratelli and he confesses to using fake vomit at a movie theater? He goes on to describe the chain reaction that ensued as one person saw another person vomit and then vomited themselves., and so on. This scene was replayed during our journey to sea this morning. Anyone without seasickness had fled to fresh air, laying claim to a spot on the lower or upper deck to catch first glimpses of the majestic cetaceans. The remaining passengers were wilted over their small, white plastic motion sickness bags at their tables, the ripped envelopes scattered over their tables. The galley served up complimentary oyster crackers and ginger ale as people fell sick one by one, like dominoes. Occasionally, a sympathetic family member would come back into the cabin to check on their loved one, staying for a few minutes before returning to the sunshine and fresh air. Incidentally, it might have been better to have the seasick folks head out to the deck for some fresh air, but it would have been like trying to corral the walking dead. No one could move.
I rubbed backs, fetched ginger ale and crackers, and readied the bags trying to make Amaya and Kai more comfortable. We took a short trip to the back of the vessel to sit on a shady bench in the fresh air, but were soon overtaken by a mom with one miserable child, patiently holding open barf bags for her boy. Dear Mom, I see you. You didn’t think today would result in you holding a bag of your child’s vomit, fetching flat ginger ale for your crying 11-year old, but here you are. Just know there is a margarita in your future, mama. Stay strong.
Good times
Throughout this ordeal, the boat’s naturalist continued to narrate what we were seeing – a tern at 10 0’clock, a puffin at 9 o’clock, a small group of harbor porpoises at 1 o’clock. Folks on the decks oohed and ahhhed outside while I had one kid’s head on my shoulder and one kid’s head on my lap, and I willed my stomach to stop turning over. I fixed my eyes on that line where the sky meets the sea (thanks, Moana), swallowed the dry oyster crackers, and whispered a lot of promises to a higher power if I could just not throw up today. All around me, bags were distributed, collected, and discarded by heroic crew members and exhausted parents, many of whom were seasick themselves. And then I heard the sweetest sound in the world.
The engines cut out. They found the whales.
Confident that Amaya and Kai were momentarily comfortable, I made my way outside for the viewing. Off the bow of the boat, the naturalist pointed out blow in the distance (whales surfacing and clearing their lungs) while passenger scooted from one side of the deck to the other following the surfacing whales.
A pair of humpbacks repeatedly dove and surfaced, putting on quite a show, and sometimes showing off their tail patterns. These unique markings on the underside of a whale’s tail are like fingerprints. Scientists can track whales by identifying their tail patterns over time to determine migratory patterns. There is still so much to learn about these incredible creatures.
One of the whales even let out an enormous poop next to the boat and the smell of the reddish liquid reached the boat on the light breeze. It smelled just about at bad as you might think excrement from a 60,000 pound creature might smell. Our knowledgeable naturalist let us know that this was very important to the ocean ecosystem, as it adds much needed nitrogen back into the water, supporting a healthy and balanced environment. The reddish color indicated a diet of krill. Now you know more about whale poop than you ever wanted to.
Since it seemed like we would be hanging out in one spot for a while, I persuaded Amaya and Kai to head out into the sunshine and breeze for a while. They were able to see the whales along with a small pod of dolphins, including a baby (so cute!) and most importantly, the most incredible sight of the day – a full breach by one of the humpbacks! Incredible how they can haul themselves out of the water completely. This is a rare sight, and one we didn’t catch on camera, but we felt so lucky to have witnessed it firsthand.
A little whale action out in the Atlantic Ocean
Dolphins at play
This bit of excitement proved to be overwhelming for Amaya and Kai, so they headed back inside to rest while the rest of us continued to marvel at the playful whales. We even caught a glimpse of a whale shark off in the distance. Amazing to know that below the tranquil and smooth open waters there is a diverse and thriving world full of creatures. I mean, the food chain was alive and well right below our feet! Also, please note, this fact is also the most terrifying to me. Open water is one of those concepts that both piques my curiosity and ignites nightmares.
By this point in the trip, I was feeling more myself – I just had an empty feeling in my stomach and I felt absolutely exhausted. Amaya and Kai were also looking better. but then the sea claimed its fourth victim – Alyssa. She didn’t look so hot as she, Rob and Alyssa entered the cabin. We quickly rearranged our seats so all four of us affected by the motion could sit facing forward, leaving Rob and Marlie to sit across from us. I procured more ginger ale and crackers for Alyssa and forced her to take small sips – this poor kid HATES carbonated beverages. I assured her the crackers and ginger would help settle her tummy, but I went ahead and opened up a motion sickness bag and slid it over to her just in case. Looking around the cabin, the carnage from the trip was everywhere…empty ginger ale cups and cracker bags spread across the tables like a minefield. The exhaustion and misery on the faces of parents whose kids had vomited for three hours was apparent and regret hung like thick fog in the air. The crew looked spent. I didn’t know how they would take visitors on an afternoon whale watch.
It’s easy to smile when you don’t feel like death.
Fortunately, the ride back to Bar Harbor was smooth. The ocean was like glass and the AtlanticCat cut through the water like a knife through butter. We arrived at the dock, all of us with noodly legs and heavy heads. We did not purchase our photo – it seemed like a lie – and we were not the same people who boarded the boat a mere four hours earlier. We ate a quick lunch at the famous Stewman’s in Bar Harbor – shrimp cocktail for Amaya, a lobster/crab cake and salad for me, a Cajun shrimp roll for Kai, chicken fingers for Marlie and burgers for Rob and Alyssa. Then, we decided to head to Bar Island, walking across the sandbar that is only accessible during low tide.
The loop from Bar Harbor to Bar island is only about 1.5 miles long. It’s largely flat, but offers several unique paths. First, you cross a rocky path with some patches of sand and some shallow tidepools that are perfect for looking for crabs, shellfish, and other small sealife. Then, you walk along a wooded dirt path to get to the summit trail. The summit trail is slightly steep and rocky, but easy enough to climb with regular sneakers. The summit overlooks Bar Harbor and offers a lovely view of Frenchman’s Bay. It also offers respite from the sun! Though only 80 degrees and with low humidity, we were hot… probably a little dehydrated… and tired from getting up early two days in a row.
The walk down to the sandbarThe sandbarMaking our way across the sandbar to Bar IslandTide poolsRecovering,,, not feeling 100%Warning! They will leave you.But, you can call a water taxi!View from the summit
The ride home was quiet. In fact, the rest of the evening was pretty low-key and quiet. We grilled a delicious dinner. I read my book while looking out over the blue sea at the sun set, and it was lights out by 9:30. Perfection. Aside from the vomiting.
Up next? Who knows? I’m envisioning a lazy campground day with late morning coffee sipped under the awning, a trip to get ice cream, and maybe a rousing round of mini-golf topped off with a sunset trip to the Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse.
Nothing says “Seize the day!” like waking up at 3:00 AM to drive out for a 4:00 AM sunrise reservation to the Summit of Cadillac Mountain in Acadia National Park. I fully expected to be making this a solo trek, despite having talked up this little adventure yesterday. I mean, who in their right mind gets up hours before the dawn on the first day of vacation? It turns out… WE DO!!!
Just two days ago, I frantically logged into the National Park Service to purchase one of these coveted passes to witness the spectacular sunrise, just as they were released. (I credit last year’s Genie+ training during our Disney trip with the successful procurement one of these limited passes.) Would you believe that all six occupants made it into the car with teeth and hair brushed and without significant grumping and groaning? If I hadn’t witnessed it with my own eyes, I wouldn’t have believed it either, and yet, there I was driving along in the blackness, roads blanketed in thick rolling fog, listening to the Foo Fighters. Lucky for me, Rob co-piloted, keeping an eye out for moose and other wildlife and we made it to the park entrance by 4:05, just as the first pink streaks of light began to break through the low-hanging clouds.
Arriving at the Summit of Cadillac Mountain – all the islands were covered in low-hanging fog (4:30AM)
It was a slow crawl to the summit parking lot. During the 20-minute ride to the top, the road twisted and turned and we snatched our first glimpses of the incredible Acadia National Park shoreline. Considerably colder and windier at the top, some grumping and groaning promptly followed our short walk to the bedrock areas overlooking the approaching sunrise. Hundreds of people, some huddled in blankets, some with parkas, some carrying small children, and some with full-on picnics, stared out at the horizon, waiting patiently for the sun to come up. Long about 4:45, we came to the grim realization that this would not be the most spectacular visual phenomenon since the thick gray clouds stretching across the sky were not going to lift in time for the 4:52 sunrise. (Let’s be honest… it was still pretty spectacular.)
4:40 AM4:45 AM4:50 AMSunrise: 4:42 AMExploring more of the SummitDoes it get any more beautiful?Clouds giving way to sun: 5:15 AMOn our way back down Cadillac Mountain – no more mist!
Even with the partially obstructed view, the sunrise was pretty amazing. Never ones to throw away a chance to explore, we made our way back to the car in a pretty round-about way, both following the footpath and also exploring some of the cliffs by walking across the bedrock. We didn’t get up at some God-forsaken hour to head back to the campsite after an hour. Interestingly, we had shaken off some of the initial grogginess and chill by climbing up and down the summit slopes, marveling at the sheer cliffs and the steep drops down below. After a quick trip to the summit gift shop (I mean, if you don’t get a Sunrise Club sticker for your RV, did you even do the Sunrise Summit?), we took advantage of being in the park by scoping out some of the popular destinations we want to return to visit later in the week. By this time, it was 5:30 AM. We were seizing the day! And there was so much to seize, given that we started the day at 3:00 AM.
While we weren’t really prepared for a big hike, we did check out some of Acadia’s more popular locations: The Bubbles, Jordan Pond (but not the Pond House since it didn’t open until 11 AM – nearly six hours after our visit – but I WILL be back for one of their famous popovers later this week!), Thunder Hole, and scooted through a section of Bar Harbor. Funny story… Rob and I stood looking out over the vastness of the ocean and spotted some activity in the distance. We kept watching and again saw what appeared to be a spout of water burst into the air. We waited and saw it again. And then again. “Do you think it’s a whale?”, I asked Rob. “I think it might be,” said Rob and began pointing again. We created an entire scenario in our minds – two whales playing off the shore. What luck! Surely, they would breach, right? So, Rob ran frantically back to the car for the binoculars. By this time, we had also convinced the kids it was a whale. We waited eagerly for Rob to confirm whale activity. I was a hot second away from telling other visitors about our fortune in this once in a lifetime sighting. After ten seconds Rob confirmed our “whale” sighting was, in fact, water breaking over a large rock, probably on a sandbar. We whipped ourselves up into a frenzy for a whitecap.
Jordan Pond – fresh water supplyThe Bubbles (mountains) from Jordan PondThe Dam at Jordan pondRocks at Thunder HoleRob & Alyssa atop Thunder HoleMe and Marlie stand down near the caves – you can hear a “roar” as water enters and exits 1-2 hours before low tideThis is where we thought we saw a whale spout in the distance.Kai atop Thunder HoleStairs down to the caveA beautiful viewRob & Alyssa
After Thunder Hole, the energy in the car turned dark, so Rob and I decided to take our crew back to the Acadia Seashore Camping and Cabins for some real breakfast (more coffee), a nap (delicious), and some well-deserved rest and relaxation. When we arrived at back at the campground after a delicious bite at Acadia Coffee, it was 8:30 AM. Though the fatigue began to set in, I felt accomplished! And then I took my day-seizing behind to bed and recharged for the rest of the day.
Amazingly, I woke up from my nap feeling energized and ready to explore. Rob, Amaya and I took advantage of the low tide and explored the tide pools along the shore trail of the campground. Typical of New England shores, the beach was rocky and scattered with seaweed and shells. We poked around a bit, sank into the mud, looked for crabs, and watched some lobster harvesters pull in their traps. The workampers (people, often adventuresome couples, who volunteer their time to work in campgrounds in exchange for a place to park their camper/RV) in the camp store told us to look for Tracey, a local harvester who owns a seafood and ice cream stand two houses down from the campground. She pulls her traps up in the morning and then sells her fresh catch the same day!
The weather has been absolutely beautiful! It’s hard to believe Maine After a brief pounding storm when we first arrived (which cut down the humidity), it has been dry, sunny, and breezy in the high seventies. In other words: perfection. It was perfect for visiting the bald eagle who roosts in a tree by the campground’s community seating, a cluster of Adirondack chairs overlooking a bluff that faces the ocean. It was perfect for reading a few chapters of my book in the sun, sipping a seltzer and hearing nothing louder than the soft clang of the channel markers in the distance. After a bit of lunch and planning for the rest of our week: a longer hike, a visit to a lighthouse, confirming our whale watch reservation for tomorrow (where we will endeavor to see actual whales and not just seawater crashing over rocks), and figuring out the timing of the tides so we can walk out to Bar Island from downtown Bar Harbor (more on this tomorrow!), we decided on a stroll over to Tracey’s for ice cream. It was the perfect compliment to the quintessential summer vacation day. I highly recommend the blueberry ice cream.
The setupResident eagleImpending stormAfter the stormRocky shore at the campgroundCampground coastlineNot a bad view!Lobster harvesterMe & RobLooking for crabsWalking to Tracey’sBlueberry deliciousness
I am absolutely loving this campground. There are no bells and whistles here, just beautifully maintained sites with incredible views, simple picnic tables and firepits. It’s quiet, full of dogs (still not regretting leaving ours), so clean, and the staff is incredibly friendly and helpful. Although it is a 45-minute drive from the more bustling Bar Harbor area, Sullivan, ME is a hidden gem. We get the beauty of Acadia without the Bar Harbor traffic. We get to discover some local treasures while still being conveniently within reach of the area’s more famous attractions. It is the best of both worlds.
Seizing the day is not just about the destination. It’s about making the most of every moment. It’s walking barefoot through cool green grass and wrapping up in a cozy flannel by a crackling campfire while reclining to look at a sky full of stars. It’s giggling playing board games crammed in the RV as the rain pounds the roof and throwing a frisbee across an open field as the sun sets into beautiful pinks and purples. It’s looking around you and realizing there is no other place you’d rather be and letting go of the rest of the world, even if just for a few glorious days. It’s days like this that you want to capture every last little moment like fireflies in a jar. It’s days like this that make our lives extraordinary.
…If you don’t stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it.”
– Ferris Bueller’s Day Off
Every so often you just need to get out and BE in nature. You don’t realize you can’t breathe deeply or think clearly. You don’t realize you’re holding stress in your shoulders, in your hips, in your fingers, that you’re clenching your jaw and scrunching your forehead. You ask yourself why you feel tired and worn out, why you constantly feel a knot in your chest and knot in your gut. It’s the constant throttle of life and the constant stimulation all day, every day. Even the weekends are filled with catching up… grocery shopping, weeding and mulching, laundry. Did I register and pay for summer camp? Did I work out today? How many days has it been since I checked if the cat had enough food and water? Where is my passport? I’m watching my life whiz by and missing out on it! What happened to the sweet, sweet summertime of lazy days lounging at the lake and drinking mid-morning coffee? Time to pump the brakes. Time for a time out. Time for Maine.
Acadia National Park has been on my bucket list for some time. It’s one of those places that is too far for a long weekend, but close enough to escape for a quick five-day trip. It’s not even accessible for camping until mid-May, making it this summer’s last-minute getaway! So we are escaping. We loaded up six people and zero dogs in a cleaned up Kevin. She’s not so new anymore and that means we want to cover her with stickers showing where we have been!
Kevin is spiffed up and ready to roll!Toad is all hooked up and loaded with overflow!New door decals – 28 states and counting!For those interested in the gritty side of camping… we will not have sewer or gray water (dishwater/shower water) drainage, so we will empty our gray water with this portable tote that we can attach to the Jeep hitch and empty frequently down the drain. The State of Maine does not allow gray water to be dumped onto the ground. We will get our black water tank pumped out by the “honey wagon” every couple of days. We don’t have this type of hookup because we booked last minute (this is how we roll).Unrelated to camping, but don’t my planters look gorgeous this year? Coleus for the win!
But, Jenn, camping and hiking within a day’s drive sounds like the perfect adventure to take four-legged friends. Nope. Not this time. We are rolling six people deep and the thought of adding two furballs to the mix sounds like something I don’t want any part of. The dogs are enjoying a stay-cation with our lovely neighbor who will likely give them more attention (and treats) than they would get with us. Also, if you remember our Smoky Mountains debacle where dogs were not allowed in most parts of the National Park, you will understand. While Acadia is a little more dog-friendly, I am certain we will have more flexibility and be a bit more spontaneous and adventurous sans pups. I firmly stand by this decision.
Our dogs have very different responses to not being invited camping. Finn is happy not to have to drive in the camper since he spends his time with his head under the seat shaking until we get to our final destination. This is the look of relief.On the other hand, Lemmy is protesting that he has not been invited on this trip and is laying it on pretty thick.
We have a few things on the agenda for our trip.
1. Drive up the Cadillac Mountain Summit Road.
2. Drive up the Cadillac Mountain Summit Road for Sunrise (this might be a solo venture given that the entry time for this is 4:00 AM)
3. Whale Watch off the Coast of Bar Harbor
4. Visit Thunder Hole at high tide and visit Bar Harbor Island at low tide.
5. See fireworks.
I also plan to finish my book (The Fourth Wing – by Rebecca Yarros), play an insane amount of board games, hike or take a long walk every day, meditate outdoors (working up to five full minutes) and drink all the coffee I want. I will also commit to not wearing makeup, worrying if my clothes match, or trying to make everyone happy. “Insert spiritual being of your choice here” take the wheel! I’m on vacation to rediscover the beauty in our world and to feed the soul with fresh air and family.
Traditional driveway takeoff photo. So glad ALL of us are on this adventure together.Crossing into Maine – halfway there!
This is what 50+ feet of road warrior awesomeness looks like! Please enjoy the commentary by my sweet neighbor O who will be helping watch our little zoo while we vacation! (This is the first video I’m posting to this blog, so please forgive the poor videography. Just learning. Stay tuned!)
“Everybody needs beauty as well as bread, places to play in and pray in, where nature may heal and give strength to body and soul alike.”
Normally, the travel back home from vacation can be a let down. You start making a mental list of the things you will need to do to get ready to go back to work: grocery shopping, laundry, sorting through the mail. For this reason, we always try to pepper in some fun pit stops to make our ride home palatable. The drive from Tennessee to Connecticut is around 13 hours, but 13 hours in an RV with five people and two dogs can easily turn into 18 hours, so we happily split the trip into two parts.
Our final destination for Thursday’s trip was Middletown, VA, in the northern Shenandoah Valley. – around 383 miles or six hours. Apart from a few stops to stretch our legs and let the dogs out, we drove pretty much straight through. While Lemmy was happy to be on the road again, Finn was less than thrilled and resumed shaking and hiding his head for the duration of the trip.
Nearing the end of our driving day, we all needed to stretch out legs for a few and we found just the spot – Luray Caverns, just a few miles from Middletown, VA. We’ve had some good finds on our road trips, but this was a gem of a park, tucked into Shenandoah National Park.
Luray Caverns is the largest cavern system in the eastern United States. These caverns boast 10-story high chambers full of rock formations of every imaginable texture. Some look like coral, while others look like folded cloth or glacial ice. There is even a dream”lake” (really only 12-18 inches deep) where the ceiling is reflected into the pool of water and appears like an aquatic abyss. We agreed it looked scarily like the Upside Down from Stranger Things! Luray Caverns are estimated to be over 450 million years old and are formed from a mild carbonic acid from the soil mixed with water that seeps through the ground, coming into contact with the limestone layers which hollows out the bedrock to form the hollow chambers. Erosion slowly wears away the weaker minerals, leaving the harder minerals behind to form the walls and ceilings. The stalagmites (coming up from the ground) and stalagmites (hanging form the ceiling) are formed as water drips into the chambers, releasing carbon dioxide, and crystalizing. It’s incredible to believe that these formations grow only one cubic inch every 120 years! The natural colors are formed from different minerals collected by the water – calcium carbonate (white), iron oxide (reddish-brown), and manganese oxide (grayish-black). We met some characters working in the caverns who pointed out some of the more interesting structures and regaled us with historical tidbits and cavern lore. I think these folks have spent a lot of time in the caverns.
The ride to the Wayside Inn, our Harvest Host campsite for the night was less than an hour from the caverns and is normally a beautifully scenic ride. Unfortunately, this area was hit with wildfires in late March and we saw the devastation firsthand. Miles of blackened forest, foliage completely eradicated. Rain moving into the area helped contain the fires which impacted both national forest land and private lands across 3,400 acres. Fire is frightening and difficult to control and this one began on private property with a downed electrical. Although it may take 100 years to completely recover, amazingly some regrowth is already evident on the ground. Nature is amazing that way.
The Wayside Inn 1797 did not disappoint. This gem of a Harvest Host was originally a stagecoach stop and way station as far back as the 1740s. It has 22-guest rooms decorated in 19th century-style and boast a quaint tavern with live entertainment. We set up shop in the parking lot and sat down for a delicious dinner (and some beers for the grown ups) before retiring to the camper for the night. I really think we could do an entire cross-country trip just staying at Harvest Host locations across the U.S.
Entrance to Luray CavernsDream LakeDream LakeDream LakeWhat’s down this scary crevice?Impressive floor to ceiling formationsThis reminded me of drying tobacco leaves.The “ice cream cone”The Great Stalagpipe OrganRob desperately wanted to sneak into one of these many dark crevices.Pluto’s GhostWishing WellFried EggsRoadside Restaurant “Cooter’s”Dukes of Hazard themed restaurantEvidence of recent forest firesLong stretch of burned out treesBarren land wiped out by fireSome regrowth is already happening.The aftermath of forest fireGorgeous Shenandoah ValleyBlue Ridge Mountains in the backA very beautiful ride at duskCamping spot for the nightOutside the pub
Exterior of The Wayside Inn
Day 2 of the journey home felt a little more rushed. With just a third of a tank of water, we had the shortest showers ever before gearing up for the final leg of the trip. Rob and I were both a little groggy from waking up frequently throughout the night to the camper violently shaking from 50-60 mile per hour winds. We just could not catch a break from wild weather! In fact, that wind whipped us along our drive home – so much, in fact, that we had to slow down our speed. You would think a rig like Kevin wouldn’t be so easily shaken, but today was a two-hands-on-the-wheel kind of driving day. In fact, the number of tractor trailers pulled over in the rest areas was astonishing. No one likes driving in the wind.
While we had no grand stops planned for the day, it is customary for us to stop at one novelty roadside attraction. Behold, the World’s Largest Paint Can! Located in Shippensburg, PA, this former water tower was purchased by the Benjamin Moore store in Shippensburg and repainted (complete with handle) to resemble a giant paint can. A couple of quick snaps and it was onto the home stretch!
Consistency.Lemmy looks beat.
Pulling into our neighborhood is always both exhilarating and bittersweet. Exhilarating, knowing you will be able to stand up straight and shower without having to contort yourself to shave your legs or turn the water on and off as not to run out of hot water. Exhilarating also describes how I feel to sleep in my own bed…we are so incredibly fortunate to have a huge, comfy RV, but you know that feeling when you sleep in your bed for the first time after vacation… there’s nothing like it. Bittersweet is knowing you had an incredible vacation, but that it is now over and you have to return to work and school and millions of kid activities in just a few days. It is also knowing that you have a mountain of laundry to wash, fold, and put away. The worst.
No one was happier than this guy as we pulled into the driveway… home sweet home!
Home, sweet home!Laundry, dirty laundry.
Kevin is parked, unpacked, and plugged in. We’ll be heading out to the Charlestown Breachway in just a few weeks, but for now, it’s “See you later!”
To say the weather was “unfavorable” would be a gross understatement. While we managed to squeeze in ALL of the fun during the day, the nighttime brought high winds and pelting rain. In fact, we had to take in our awning as the storms moved in so quickly, we had little time to react. Both Rob and I poked out heads outside in the middle of the night to make sure Kevin’s bits and pieces were still in tact, and not, in fact, flying off the camper. It is one of the biggest camping faux pas to scatter debris from your campsite across the campground. No one likes to wake up with someone else’s bathing suit hanging from their antenna or a camp chair flipped into their fire pit. Overall, no damage to the camper, just a very soggy campground and a weather forecast that included showers off and on for the rest of the day – nothing that would slow us down.
Any activity that includes animals is usually a winner for our group. Alyssa’s pick was Parrot Mountain and Garden of Eden, four acres tucked up in the mountains of Pigeon Forge with thousands of beautifully manicured flowers, plants and trees and hundreds of beautiful tropical birds. As we drove up the steep, winding driveway to the property, we couldn’t help but gawk at the gorgeous colors and lush landscape of the park. Picturesque stairs flanked by tropical birds on their perches led to the entrance. Ducking under thatched rooftops during the occasional cloudburst, we strolled along the treetop walkway admiring jays, macaws, cockatoos and more. Exotic birds in spacious enclosures with swings, balls, jungle gyms, perches, and feeders lined the pathways. Signs on the enclosures advised that the birds bite and not to touch the birds. Not surprisingly, the only person who needed reminding about keeping their hands to themselves was Rob.
Why does it look like we have all been Photoshopped into this picture?
How did such a place come to exists in Tennessee? Well, Fletcher Hollingsworth, founder of Parrot Mountain had a dream that led him to Tennessee to build an exotic bird sanctuary. As a child, he rescued and rehabilitated injured birds. Eventually, he became interested in tropical birds and began collecting them to bring to a sanctuary in New Orleans. Now that he has developed Parrot Mountain, he has collected over 130 species of exotic birds, many of which have been brought there for rehabilitation or to escape abuse. Some were surrendered as unwanted pets by their owners, and many are considered endangered species. During warm months, the birds are kept outdoors, but in the colder months, they are housed inside to protect them from the elements.
As you wander the grounds of Parrot Mountain, evidence of the Hollingsworths family’s affection for these incredible birds is pervasive, as is their spirituality. The gardens provide spots for quiet reflection, gorgeous vistas of the surrounding mountains, and opportunities to be surrounded by these beautiful creatures. Every employee working at Parrot Mountain was friendly with outward affection and appreciation for the park’s inhabitants. They helped visitors learn more about the birds, why they were there, and the best way to interact with them.
One of the draws to visiting Parrot Mountain was the opportunity to feed the birds. I never imagined that we would literally be covered in birds. In the feeding area, no photos were allowed, but there were dozens of birds, large, and small on perches, waiting to be hand fed sunflower seeds. Kai and I had some definitely hesitation in letting some of the larger birds eat out of our hands. (I have some trauma from living in Mexico where we had a macaw in our home and it was aggressive. Paco bit me on more than one occasion and those beaks are no joke!). It turns out that the large birds are gentle and they use their tongues to maneuver the sunflower seed so that their strong beak can crack it open and eat the meat from the seed. Then, they spit out the shell – it’s remarkable! Some birds hopped right on our fingers or shoulders. They are funny, with distinct personalities and incredibly verbal! Marlie even taught on to say her name!
We were also able to interact with birds as we fed the lories small cups of nectar in their protected enclosure and also in the nursery where young birds are raised and cared for by Parrot Mountain staff. I think we could have left Alyssa there all day and returned for her at dusk. Both she and Marlie have a special connection with animals. The more Kai is around them, the more he relaxes and learns to enjoy being around animals too.
Feeding lorries nectar.Bird nursery
If you happen to find yourself in Pigeon Forge, I cannot recommend Parrot Mountain highly enough.
From birds to boats, we headed over to Pigeon Forge’s Titanic Museum. I, too, had my doubts about a Titanic Museum in the middle of Tennessee, a place with no obvious connection to the Titanic. However, if you are a Titanic enthusiast, this place a must-see. The museum is in the shape of the ship (a 1/2 size replica), complete with iceberg. It’s very impressive from the outside! However, it is definitely a missed opportunity for the museum that you cannot stand on the bow with your arms outstretched like Kate and Leo. When we arrived, we were given cards with short biographies of actual passengers who were aboard the ship and at the end of the exhibit, we could discover their fate by finding their names on the memorial wall. Four of us were from the same family, the Anderssons, from Sweden), third class passengers. I was assigned the mother and Rob, Marlie, and Alyssa were my children. Kai was a first-class passenger, a man named Hudson Allison. As we navigated the museum, we listened to an audio-tour with narration from actual survivors and their families. Artifacts from the ship and replicas of key features such as a lifeboats, first and third class accommodations, and the Grand Staircase provide an immersive experience. Museum workers dress in period clothing and answer any questions about the ship or its passengers.
Looking at pictures of passengers boarding the ship with their belongings, excitement in their eyes, the opulence of the ship captured in eerie black and white gave me goosebumps. Dishes, jewelry, a deck chair, a trunk and other artifacts brought up from the wreckage are ghostly reminders of the tragedy that occurred. You can hop on the sloping decks to experience how it might have felt as the ship descended, touch water at 28 degrees, the temperature of the North Atlantic the night the ship hit the iceberg and use the telegraph to send a distress signal.
First class stateroomOn the bridgeShe wouldn’t have let us crash.Cold water!12 degree slope30 degree slope45 degree slopeLEGO TitanicMovie replica of the Heart of the OceanThe Grand StaircaseThe iceberg!The Titanic Museum as seen from the outside
As you move through the exhibit, which is staged like a timeline of events in the ship’s history, the intensity builds. I can hardly imagine the panic and fear that ensued on the night of April 14th, 1912 and often wonder how survivors dealt with the aftermath. Of the 135 children on board (ages 15 and under), over 50% were lost. First class passengers had a survival rate of 62%, while third class passengers had a survival rate of only 25%. We found our passenger’s names on the memorial wall at the end of the tour. Each one of them perished aboard Titanic. Having the name of a passenger assigned during your visit personalizes the experience. You root for this individual’s survival. I felt a little gut-punch on finding out Mrs. Alfrida Andersson’s fate.
Here are our bios and a photo of the actual family:
Our crew
So much excitement and so little time! After a quick stop at the Fun Zone, where Marlie and Alyssa rode the giant spring swing, we had an early night with breakfast for dinner and another episode of Physical 100. Tomorrow we pack up early and head to Middletown, VA and another Harvest Host site.
1 nervous, 1 excited!This thing is no joke!Do they love it?It’s fun, right?It’s over!
Pigeon Forge, it’s been a blast!
Finn already looks nervous about traveling tomorrow. He’s cool just staying put.
Traveling with a large party means that there is a wide variety of interests among the people in your group. Not everyone loves shopping. Carnival rides are not everyone’s cup of tea. Nature is not everyone’s idea of a good time. But, everyone gets a choice and the unwritten rule is that you participate in the activities so that when your pick comes up, you don’t end up with a bunch of Grumplestiktskins.
The morning rain subsided around 10:30 AM, giving way to blue skies and 65 degree temps. With no more rain in the forecast for at least five hours, we headed toward the Smoky Mountains. The Great Smoky Mountains is the most visited national park in the U.S. It covers parts of Tennessee and North Carolina and is recognized for its mountains (part of the Appalachians), waterfalls, biodiversity and forests. One of the most recognizable inhabitants of the Smoky Mountains is the black bear, but the woods are also home to white-tailed deer, river otters, salamanders, coyotes, elk, timber rattlers, and a whole host of wildlife. We didn’t see any of these, but counted about a dozen wild turkeys throughout the day! The mountains get their name from the thick white clouds that hang low over the evergreen dotted peaks. One of the entrances to the park is right down the street from Pigeon Forge, in the city of Gatlinburg, TN.
Gatlinburg is a gateway to the Smokies. City planners designed the city to resemble a Swiss-mountain village. Even with the growing tourism in the city, the feel of the city is much quainter and quieter than its neighbor, Pigeon Forge. The quaint streets are walkable and lined with restaurants and artisan shops with touristy attractions woven in throughout. It’s a great base camp for all kinds of activities – head into the mountains for a hike and come back for dinner and a show!
The road to GatlinburgGatlinburgFun in GatlinburgRestaurantsRipley’s!Star Cars MueseumDowntown Gatlinburg with a view of the Smokies
With rain predicted for every last day of this trip, this was the only opportunity to get at least one hike in. I mean, we couldn’t come all the way down to Tennessee and not head into the Smokies at least once. We chose a trail that was pet-friendly. This turned out to be a pretty easy task, since, as per the usual, having done very little research prior to this trip, we realized that there were only two trails where dogs were permitted in this region of the Smoky Mountains. This is consistent with all National Parks. Dogs are not permitted for their own safety as well as that of local plant and animal life. At one point a couple of years ago, we knew this. Clearly, we forgot. If I’m being honest, this is 100% on-brand for us.
So, long story short, we headed to the Gatlinburg Trailhead behind the Sugarlands Visitor Center to commence exploration. To say Lemmy was excited would be the understatement of the century. No one loves a walk (or a car ride, or food) as much as Lem. The thump of his tail sounded for the entire ride. He stuck big blonde head over the back seat between Marlie and Kai, his hot panting breaths in their ears. And then, there was Finn, flattened to the floor of the trunk, getting whacked in the face by Lemmy’s unrelenting wagger. Great Smoky Mountain National Park is the only national park that does not charge a fee to enter. It cost us $5 to park our car and we hopped out for a quick four-mile hike with Finn and Lemmy. Lemmy could hardly be contained as we unloaded him from the car. He practically dragged us to the trailhead, unable to contain his enthusiasm. This is what he was built for! Finn likes a hike too, but sniffing things along the trail is more his jam. Smelling things makes his heart happy – nose to the ground.
Happy campersEntering the parkWalking to the trailWho’s a happy dog?Walking alongA boy and his dog
The scenery in the Smoky Mountains did not disappoint. The trail follows the Little Pigeon River, a rushing waterway that meanders through the forest with some small rapids here and there. It curves and winds its way through the woods which were just in the early stages of sprouting their new leaves. Remnants of homes long gone and other stone structures appeared from time to time as we made our way down the trail. Marlie is a speed-walker and definitely the fastest in our group, while I am more of a wanderer and stop frequently to look more closely at rocks, trees, and empty the gravel from my sneakers. Why am I the only one who ever has a shoe full of pebbles?
Old FireplaceChimney left standingGotta cool off the bellyRanger StationPost-workout refueling
We passed a lot of other hikers with dogs. Here, I use the term “hiker” very loosely. Going into this adventure, I knew we were going for an easier hike, which means it is accessible to more people of varying abilities. Many people had lovely dogs whose dogs, like ours, were polite and well-behaved on short leashes (the rule is six feet or less). We made sure to collect our dog waste and deposit it in the appropriate receptacle, like responsible stewards of the park. Who wants to walk a trail littered with dog poop? Unfortunately, it became clear that not everyone has the respect for the parks, for nature, or for other humans, in general. The kids looked on in horror as a family with three teenagers and a bulldog wandered onto the trail with their lit cigarettes and flip flops. The father kicked a few leaves over their dog’s “business” and flicked his butt into the forest floor. Isn’t this is how forest fires start.? We weren’t the only people wildly offended by this family’s behavior. Exchanging glances with other hikers, we sort of all shrugged at each other and gave a wide berth as we passed them and continued on our way.
Since we were already in the park, I wanted to see a bit more before heading back to Camp. Not met with the greatest enthusiasm from the backseat, we proceeded to make the slow drive through the park. On our way, we passed the trailheads for Laurel Falls and The Sinks, two very popular trails in this part of the Smokies. Laurel Falls is probably the most famous hike with the reward of 80-foot falls at the top. It’s a moderate hike, but no dogs allowed. The Sinks was created by loggers who blasted rock near a natural bend in the river, creating crystal clear natural pools. We’ll consider this trip as an opportunity to scout great hikes for our next visit.
Smoky MountainsScenery throughout the parkLitle Pigeon RiverIncredible vistasDriving back towards Pigeon ForgeWhat a view!Farmland in the valleyFarms on the hills
By the time we got back to Pigeon Forge, poor Kai was incredibly carsick. At one point he asked for gum and all I saw were his white lips. Switchbacks will do that to you! Mercifully, it was a quick recovery and after quick respite at the camper including lunch and laundry, we were onto the next big thing: Go Karts!
Go Karting in Pigeon Forge is probably one of the most popular activities on the strip. You can have your pick from dozens of locations with an array of themes and levels of safety. We chose XTREME Racing Center of Pigeon Forge – with an elevated track and a high-speed track. My mama heart skipped a few beats as I realized that, while the Go Karts and track were well-maintained, they did not have helmets for the riders. Yikes. Against any sort of good judgement, we let all three kids go anyway and hoped for the best. There wasn’t too much to worry about on the elevated course. The cars went at a moderate speed and the long course allowed for plenty of space between drivers. Alyssa had a death grip on the wheel, but a huge smile on her face, while Marlie creeped up slowly on Kai, nearly catching him. Three competitive kids… I love it!
After a couple of turns on the elevated track, the kids graduated to the high speed course. These Go Karts were on a whole other level of speed and excitement… and fear. Not for the first time, I crossed my fingers and hoped for the best! One of the best things about Kai, Marlie, and Alyssa is that they like thrills and adventure (Alyssa has to be talked into some of these adventures, but she’s always glad she shows up.). This is also one of the things that stresses me out to watch! Participating in these things is one thing, watching your kids do it is quite another. A couple of spin-outs, one slightly nasty sideswipe, and an idiot adult made the experience heart-pounding for ALL of us! Fortunately, all the kids survived their Go Kart experience largely unscathed. Adrenaline still pumping, we went on one final thrill of the day.
We are lucky to still be at a point where the kids still want us to do activities with them. It was really sweet that they wanted to end the day with something we could all do. Taking advantage of the dry weather, we chose the mountain coaster at Skyland Ranch. A mountain coaster is like an alpine slide, except the your car is on rails instead of a concrete luge. You buckle into a single-rider car with hand controls that allow you to go at full-speed (forward) or slow down (pull back). It is also less likely that you will flip out of the car and suffer serious road-rash on a mountain coaster. In fact, the ride is smooth and the views on the Skyland Mountain Coaster were stunning! The coaster looked out over the Pigeon Forge Strip, but also over the enormous horse farm on the side of the mountain. Great way to cap off a very adventurous day!
Mountain CoasterGoing up!View from the top!Not a bad viewUp againThe dismountRob’s first roller coaster post-strokeHe made it!
Not quite ready to turn in for the night, the five of us made a quick trip to the arcade located in the Camp Margaritaville Lodge. It’s your pretty standard arcade: Air Hockey, SkiBall, Space Invaders, Pop-A-Shot… We got a $5 voucher with our check-in packet, so naturally, we spent $40 more. This was a pick EVERYONE agreed on. Alyssa and Marlie teamed up and I paired up with Kai. Of course, the first game we gravitated toward was Air Hockey. It’s a well-known fact that I do not care for losing. Kai led me 5-2 with just a few minutes left in the match. I was bracing myself for the loss, when he smirked and said, “I’m not eight years old, Mom. You can’t beat me anymore.” Game on. If I was a better parent, I might have let him have his victory, but I opted for a teachable moment, and beat him 7-6. I also won at Pop-A-Shot. I did, however, lose every game that was created after 1980 (sigh): Halo, Jurassic Park, Mario Kart. I guess we call it even(ish). After a long day it was a fun way to let off some steam – and to preserve my Gen X pride in the process.
The giant foosball table – 3 per side, not six!
Having walked back to the camper in high spirits, we capped off the evening with the traditional bowl of microwave popcorn and flipped on the Netflix show Physical 100, Season 2. If you have not seen Physical 100, you are totally missing out on good family fun. Now, normally, I’m not a huge reality TV fan (except for the Amazing Race – I love that show!), but this one is a winner. The best way I can describe this show is 100 beautiful and athletic Korean contestants compete in brutal feats of athleticism. The show dubbed into English… terribly dubbed and hilariously translated, but the most dramatic and satisfying part of the show is that the contestant who is eliminated each week has to smash a plaster of Paris torso of themselves before they leave the arena – in incredibly dramatic fashion. The show is definitely entertaining and fun for our whole family to watch together. Not many shows keep everyone engaged, but for nine glorious episodes, we will see which contestant is in top physical share and remains the last one standing. I’m rooting for a female winner this season!
With rain on the horizon for tomorrow, plans are up in the air! But today was a good day – a really, really good day.
Something about hearing the gentle pitter patter of rain on the roof while you snuggle down into your warm covers feels incredibly cozy and comforting, EXCEPT when you want to enjoy the outdoors on your vacation. We drove all this way. enduring eclipse traffic and dog farts, and the weather is not cooperating with us this week. Nothing but rain and gray skies in the forecast. *Shakes fist angrily at sky while Volcano blares from the lodge.* True to their name, the Smoky Mountains were nearly completely masked by a thick layer of mist.
What can you do? A this point, you have a camperful of kids who have been trapped in our moving tin can for three days and now wish to be entertained. The answer is, you buy yourselves some time to make a plan by exploring the Camp Margaritaville Lodge and order a LOT of food.
Frankly, this place is incredible. Every detail is is on brand with the Margaritaville lifestyle – a Parrothead paradise! Even the campsite numbers are listed on Margaritaville license plates! Plus, there is a lost salt shaker hidden somewhere in the lodge each day. If you find it, you win a prize. I imagine this place is mobbed during the high season, but for now, it’s completely empty, from the arcade and game room, to the activity hall and restaurant. They have the biggest foosball table I have ever seen – big enough for at least six people to play on each side! We did find a couple of families also escaping the rain in the duckpin bowling alley, which we absolutely will come back to one evening.
Our setup at Camp MargaritavilleThe lodge with a hint of Smoky MountainsLodge in the rainDid we bring enough umbrellas? Of course not!Squint really hard and you can almost make out some hills.Pool areaLobbyLazy River – closed due to weather.
Lunch in the bar put us in vacation mode! Wings, burgers, tacos, quesadillas and these incredible hand-cut potato chips. (Elon folks, – these chips are a reincarnation of the chips from Ham’s – I was right back in Burlington in 1999 – Yum!) This quote was right above the bar – the right place at the right time. We make our own fun, pivot and reboot.
We are makin’ margaritas, y’all.
The reincarnated “Ham’s” chips.
With full bellies, we headed back to Kevin made a plan. What are the most Smoky Mountain things we could do in the rain? Were you thinking visit the largest knife store in the world and then attend the Dolly Parton Stampede Dinner Show? Probably, not, but there it was.
At this point, you may be asking yourself, what does the largest knife store in the world look like? I will just say that if you have a need for a knife and you cannot find that knife in this store, it doesn’t exist. In addition to the knives, you can find guns, taxidermied (is this a word) Smoky Mountain animals, camping supplies, purses, t-shirts, and a wide assortment of novelty items. At this point, you can let your imagination run wild. You probably could name anything and it would be located on any of the three stories of this store. Kai was in heaven. I probably could have dropped him off and picked up up at closing and he would have had his best day ever. Rob would have spent an equal amount of time in the tool shop across the parking lot, but that’s not why we came to Pigeon Forge.
Three.Stories.This is his excited face.Did you guess water wheel? There were at least three of these in the store.Yes. An iron throne of knives.This is just one of the many cases of knives carried in the store. Impressive.
We came to Pigeon Forge to experience the best of the smoky Mountains. And when the rain foiled our plans, we went to the next best thing: the Jurassic Jungle Boat Ride. This classic attraction combines some of the world’s most rejected dinosaur animatronics with the fear of possibly being murdered in a harrowing 11-minute cruise through a setting, I am positive, that is more terrifying with the lights on. There were laughs. There were screams. There were no photos taken because of the absolute blackness of the ride’s interior.
Topping off this part of the day’s adventure was a trip to the Goats on the Roof tourist shop. Upon entering the store, we quickly realized that this was not the store’s primary location, as there were not goats on the roof, but instead, goats in a small pen at the back of the store. At any rate, we met the Golden Girls, four super-cute Nigerian goats born in February and shopped around the store. Marlie bought an old-school slingshot and entertained herself behind the camper for a couple of hours in the afternoon. We’ll find the original Goats on the Roof store later this week.
Arguably, the most famous individual from this area is the one-and-only Dolly Parton. While not from Pigeon Forge, she is from Sieverville, TN, Pigeon-Forge adjacent. I love a good dinner show and there are a few pretty big ones here in Pigeon Forge: The Dolly Parton Stampede, The Hatfields and McCoys, and the Pirates Voyage. Based on the amount of pure Americana promised in the advertising, we chose Dolly. On our way to the Stampede, we were flagged down by a mini-van full of twenty-something young men yelling and waving their arms. We had taken off with a dog tether attached to the hitch of the car and it was just dragging and sparking behind us. I’m fairly certain they thought we had dragged our dog behind us unknowingly and were probably horrified (a la Vacation). Let me be clear, that did NOT happen. The tether was empty.
Obviously, the real Dolly Parton was not actually in the show, but her spirit was present… and her voice… in many of the songs included in the show. As you might expect, it was a mix of horse riding, storytelling, acrobatics, comedy, and patriotism – all good fun! There was even a competition between the North and South, which ended with a flag-passing race. This event ending up sinking the North since our side was full of bus-tour passengers who followed the rules of the competition instead of cheating like the rest of the crowd. All in all, a fun time enjoyed by everyone in our group!
Outside the StampedeJay Teeter, our hostCircling the wagonsHello, Buffalo.Westward, ho!!A little treat for moi.America.Trick ridingTrick riding
While it might not have been the outdoor adventures we expected, it was a good day: knives, goats, dinosaurs, horses. A pretty good day! It looks like we might get a break in the weather tomorrow and these kids and dogs (and adults) need some fresh air and movement! Hoping to get to the Smokies for a good hike. Whatever we choose, we are making “margaritas” from limes, choosing to find the joy whatever the obstacles and loving every minute! Cheers!
Evansville, IN: Population 118,414, situated in the southern part of the state, is the third largest city in Indiana and, ultimately our chosen destination for viewing the Great American Eclipse of 2024. Although known for its commercial, medical, and cultural activity, our Evansville experience was limited to a view of the parking lot: Best Buy, Arby’s, and Dick’s. Not the most scenic surroundings, but the real show was in the sky, so no one complained. No hard feelings, Evansville. We appreciated your ample parking spaces with plenty of room to extend Kevin’s slides, put out the awning, and set up chairs and tables for the main event.
On the way to Evansville – we considered Ferdinand. But, look – it’s Santa Claus, IN!Somewhere outside EvansvilleMore farmland near EvansvilleThe most uncomfortable leg of the trip for two of us.The worst photo of our setup in the parking lot.Eclipse neighborsGuy with super expensive equipmentNot too crowded for the viewingWe were alone for quite a while!
We chose a spot along the edge of the parking lot where we were sure not to block any traffic. Within a few hours, we had around a dozen or so vehicles stake their claim in the parking lot too, some with specialized camera equipment, and some who had merely pulled over to catch a glimpse of this rare astronomical event within their regularly-scheduled Monday programming. We could not have asked for a better viewing spot.
After a quick sprint to Walmart for garbage bags and juice box reinforcements, we tested our eclipse glasses. It really is incredible to be able to look directly at the sun with these glasses. Every few minutes we put them on, took a glance towards the heavens, and resumed reading, resting, and snacking. I found some Moon Pies on my Walmart excursion and enjoyed one as we waited – if you know me, I love a good theme, so this was a really exciting find for me, even though they are dry like the desert.
It’s a pretty bizarre scene to stand in an empty parking lot with a bunch of strangers staring up at the sky for three hours. What an odd sight. People of all ages milling around, periodically putting on their futuristic looking glasses and looking directly at the sun – the one thing we were told never, ever to look at directly is now the one thing we are all looking at directly.
At 12:51 CDT, we noticed the first slice of the moon creeping up over the bottom of the sun. Just a tiny sliver of black over the glowing orb. Then a bit more and a bit more. With about 30 minutes before totality, the sky took on a yellowish glow. It wasn’t noticeably darker, just a sort of eerie tone washed over the sky. Even with just five minutes before totality, it was still bright, albeit a ghastly, hazy hue. What was noticeable was the sudden drop in temperature. Since we were not in a rural area, we didn’t see any uncharacteristic behaviors from animals; however, Finn refused to leave the front seat of the camper and come outdoors. I have always thought that he senses the tiniest shifts in noise and weather, so maybe he had a feeling that kept him indoors. Who knows? He’s an “interesting” creature, for sure.
Testing out the glasses.Yes. The glasses work.Three. Hours. In. This. Space.Traditional eclipse snack?View of the sun through solar glasses just before the eclipse begins.Pretty emptyJust hanging in the lot.60 minutes before totalityIt’s getting there – 15 minutes out from totality.5 minutes before totality – so yellow and eerie.
Is it weird that I got a little nervous in the minutes leading up to totality? Not that I felt it was “the end of days” or “the apocalypse,” it was just this whole-body sensation of experiencing something so awe-inspiring and sharing it with millions of people across the continent. With about a minute left before totality, the parking lot and street lights came on. Plaza employees emptied out of their stores and a hush came over the whole parking lot. Rob counted down the seconds to totality as we watched through our eclipse glasses, and then it was time. As we removed our glasses, there was a collective gasp from the parking lot spectators and we stood with our mouths agape for the three minutes of totality.
Totality was simply breathtaking. The moon was so very black over the sun and the thinnest ring of pure, shimmery white surrounded it. I’ve heard that it has been called a “wedding band” since ancient alchemists referred to eclipses as the “marriage between the sun and the moon.” How beautiful.
Totality – Kai seems unimpressed. This is a lie. He was.
Totality from my iPhone 15 Pro – lame.
Totality.
Looking round at Rob and the kids, I saw the awe in their faces. We were giddy. I forgot to look for sharpening shadows and a deepening blue sky, but was focused on the dark and the chill in the air. Alyssa pointed out the shimmery, scale effect reflecting on the asphalt. and we watched the tiny blotches bounce across the parking lot. Rob counted us down to the end of totality. We watched the sun creep out from behind the moon and within two minutes, the daylight had snuck back it. And just like that, The Great American Eclipse was over.
Professional photo of the eclipse totality as seen from Evansville, IN.
In just a few minutes we had Kevin all packed up and our destination in Pigeon Forge entered into the GPS: Camp Margaritaville RV Resort. While this leg of the journey should have taken around five hours of driving time, we were able to make it in just over nine hours. Why the delay, you ask? We doubled dipped with two kinds of traffic: eclipse traffic (expected) and accident traffic (unexpected). At one point two hours were immediately added to our delay time.
So what do we do when we find ourselves with such an unexpected amount of travel time? We make the best of it, lean into the adventure, and get creative!
finished listening to our eclipse playlist
game and watch movies
started a new audiobook (The Last Mile by David Baldacci)
made a full meal while in slow-moving traffic (grinders, fruit and yogurt, frozen pizza)
streamed the UCONN game (OK, I watched on the iPad and yelled out the score to Rob periodically)
stopped at Buccee’s (if you thought Sheetz sounded cool, wait until you see Buccees!)
His head is out. Improvement, right?Good as ever.Just chillin’Eclipse traffic.Eclipse traffic.More eclipse traffic.Crossing the Ohio River into TN.The bridge crossing over into TN.This is the plastic bag we hit and dragged around flapping and melting before we could pull over and remove it from under the RV.Hello, TN!TNIt’s official!The tail end of accident traffic. Heading into Nashville.Nashville!Nissan Stadium – home of the Titans.Command central – the dashboard.Look what’s coming up! Time for a rest stop!Look at all those open, pull-through gas pumps!Like an oasis for the weary traveler.Is it a grocery store or souvenir shop? Yes.With its own line of clothing and novelties…A guy could get lost in a place like this.Custom sauces.Hot sandwich bar.Very tired kids with Buccee.Brisket sandwich. for the win!Wall of jerky? Yes, please!
Since Rob had his stroke, he gets tired more easily. I can tell he’s getting fatigued when he starts rubbing the back of his head. By the time we rolled into Pigeon Forge, it was 12:45 AM EDT and I was worried since he drove the entire day. As tired as we were (Alyssa and Marlie fell asleep), Rob, Kai and I perked right up at the bright lights on Pigeon Forge. Having absolutely no idea of what to expect, I was unprepared for the assault on the eyes at this late hour. Bright lights, flashing billboards, arcades, souvenir shops, go-carts, mountain coasters, dinner shows and more! I didn’t know where to look first – it was so much. In our delirium, the three of us began reading out the names of the signs, excitedly making a chaotic list of places we wanted to return to later this week. If we had a month, we couldn’t hit all the places we listed! I think we mentioned at least six different pancake houses (I saw no problem with this.), four different escape rooms, and ten different stores (knives, boots, t-shirts, moonshine). The entire strip was like a family-friendly Vegas – just a huge strip of entertainment wrapped in neon. Unbelievable that this oasis of entertainment is nestled right in the heart of the Great Smoky Mountains, which we hope to catch a glimpse of tomorrow.
Finally!Bright light!Neon as far as the eye can see!
The Camp Margaritaville RV Resort was a beautiful sight (and sound – who wouldn’t like to pull into their accommodations to the tune of Cheeseburger in Paradise?). Perhaps the most beautiful thing about the campground was that it was practically empty and that all the sites had spacious and level concrete pads (This means minimal dirt entering the camper and less time spent leveling the camper so you’re not listing to one side during your stay – WIN!). We pulled in, disconnected the Jeep, fed and walked the dogs, connected sewer, water, and electricity, and now we are ready to drop like logs into our beds. I’ll look for the mountains tomorrow.
To steal the title from CBS This Morning… we are off and racing toward sunny skies to hunker down in a Walmart parking lot for five hours waiting to look up at the sun and watch it completely disappear. Sounds crazy, right? The thing is, that is what we are ALL doing today. Millions of faces will be standing in fields, in parking lots, in stadiums, or in backyards with their heads tilted up (wearing ISO approved eclipse glasses, of course) waiting for the darkness. Birds will sing their nighttime songs, bats will fly, chickens will put themselves to bed, and humans will inevitably do some incredibly stupid stuff.
So what do we do while we wait? We listen to eclipse playlists, of course. Besides the obvious Bonnie Tyler track, what else would you put on your Eclipse 2024 playlist?
Here are a few good ones from Apple Music and Spotify: