Glacier and Banff Day 10: Today

Day 10: July 6, 2025 — Icefields Parkway: Lake Louise, Banff NP → Jasper, Jasper NP

Today felt infinite. We drove the Icefields Parkway—one of the most stunning stretches of road on the planet—through a dreamscape of turquoise lakes, ancient glaciers, and towering peaks that seem too beautiful to be real: bright, raw, and a little wild. It was a day to be fully alive—to stop at every scenic pull-off, to breathe in glacier-cooled air pouring through open windows. Today was the greatest.

You’d think that by this point in the trip we’d be over long drives—but no, we pushed on. After stashing the Jeep at a school near Calaway Park Campground (please, please, please let it still be there when we return on Tuesday!), we caravanned north in our new blue rental to the Lake Louise Hard-Sided Campground in the heart of Banff National Park. Another hour of uninterrupted audiobook time? Yes, please.

If Glacier National Park was impressive, Banff is best described in one word: vast. The Canadian Rockies rise high and wide, their snow-capped peaks thick with ancient glacial ice. Morning mist still clung to the mountaintops as we arrived. When we booked this leg of the trip, we’d done exactly zero research on Banff, having spent all our planning energy trying to crack Glacier’s reservation system. I knew I wanted to see Lake Louise, Moraine Lake, and drive the Icefields Parkway to Jasper—but did we understand where any of these places were in relation to our campground? Nope. Did we grasp just how far apart the towns of Banff, Lake Louise, and Jasper actually are? Also no.

Good thing there was plenty to look at.

Our Lake Louise campsite was spacious and level—definitely an upgrade from our slanted patch at Two Medicine. Though the campground was supposedly full, it felt nearly empty when we pulled in around 11:00 a.m. A quick lunch later, and we were off to explore the Icefields Parkway—a 141-mile stretch of winding mountain road connecting Lake Louise and Jasper. While 288 miles round-trip sounds like a haul, the day was broken up by stops at glacial-blue lakes, rushing streams, dramatic overlooks, and jaw-dropping vistas. With no plan and no pressure, we pulled over wherever we felt like it—stretching our legs, snapping photos, and craning our necks for wildlife. (Still no grizzly sightings… but statistically, with just 65 in all of Banff’s 1.6 million acres, it’s not surprising. Jasper has about 100 grizzlies spread across 2.7 million acres.) Incidentally, the Icefields Parkway is definitely where all the RVs from the Lake Louise Campground were spending the day.  Unbelievable that people would choose to drive their motorhome on mountain switchbacks, but there is no shortage of them – and about half of them are rentals!  No thank you.  Blue rental for the win!

Roughly halfway up the Parkway, where Banff and Jasper National Parks meet, lies the Columbia Icefield: ancient, immense, and spectacular. Six glaciers make up this icy behemoth, covering 125 square miles and plunging as deep as 1,200 feet. While you can walk on the glacier, you’ll need proper gear and a guide or you could fall into a crevasse – given our track record on this trip, we decided not to tempt fate.. Instead, we opted to view it from the Visitor Centre, where a portion of the icefield is visible—and the air is strikingly colder than the rest of the Parkway. Cold enough, in fact, that I busted out a winter hat. One day, I’d love to return and walk on that glacier. For now, watching the massive Ice Explorer vehicles rumble across it was thrilling enough.

About an hour outside of Jasper, we drove through areas scorched by last summer’s wildfires. Over 79,000 acres burned after multiple lightning strikes and strong winds fanned the flames. More than 25,000 people—residents and tourists—were evacuated. The damage is still visible, but signs of life are everywhere: green shoots, wildflowers, and resilient grasses are reclaiming the charred forest floor. Along one stretch, a family of elk grazed peacefully by the road.

Jasper is a gem tucked into the heart of its namesake park. The first thing you notice is the town’s laid-back vibe—nothing fussy, just access to hiking, rafting, water sports, and epic wildlife viewing. Its streets are lined with restaurants, shops, and very happy dogs. It’s also a hub for both freight and passenger rail, offering cross-country service and regional tours. Jasper buzzes in the summer, and come winter, skiers flock to Marmot Basin. For a small town, it feels full of life—even as it continues to recover from last year’s fire.

Since it doesn’t get dark until nearly 11 p.m. in northern Alberta, we drove back to Lake Louise while it was still light. We stopped to take pictures of the moon rising over the mountains—and finally spotted a black bear! (A small one, but still adorable.) Rob insisted we drive down to Lake Louise for a sneak peek, so we wandered to the lakeshore. Under the night sky, the lake looked like a flat, black mirror—not super impressive at night. Tomorrow, we’ll see it in the daylight.

Can’t wait!

End of Day Stats:
Mileage: 454 kilometers (282 miles)
National Parks Visited: 2
Rubber Ducks Deployed: 0 (I’m the WORST.)
Oohs & Ahhs!: Too many to count
 

Cue: Today by Smashing Pumpkins—for a stunningly beautiful and emotional day on the Icefields Parkway.