Glacier and Banff Day 11: No Rain

Day 11: July 7, 2025 – Moraine Lake & Lake Louise, Banff NP

Some days are pure sunshine—where everything feels easy, light, and dreamlike. Today was that kind of day. We wandered through postcard-worthy views at Lake Louise and Moraine Lake, surrounded by water so blue it hardly seemed real. No rush, no pressure—just beauty everywhere we turned.

The day unfolded slowly, and the morning was absolutely perfect. While the girls slept in after our late-night visit to “Lake Louise After Dark,” Rob and I snuck off for a morning date: breakfast and a ride on the Summer Gondola at the Lake Louise Ski Area.

The 14-minute trip up Mount Whitehorn offered sweeping views of the valley, and in the distance, a glimpse of Lake Louise. As we climbed higher, we spotted a black bear scurrying into the woods—not a grizzly, but still a thrill to see wildlife wandering the mountain slopes.

If you squint really hard, you can see the bear in the top right corner near the woods.

These quiet morning escapes are some of my favorite travel moments. Even when we’re just sitting silently, breathing in the cool air and soaking in the views, I feel grounded. It reminds me that Rob and I share something rare—something enduring and absolutely worth the work it takes to maintain. These were the thoughts running through my mind as we reached 6,896 feet. I like to imagine Rob was feeling similarly sentimental, though let’s be honest—he was probably scanning the horizon for grizzlies. Either way, I’ll take it. I love our little morning jaunts.

By now, you’ve probably noticed—we don’t do many tours. We like to move at our own pace and avoid the large crowds. But since Moraine Lake no longer allows personal vehicles, and Parks Canada shuttles were sold out, we booked the next best thing: a bare-bones Moraine/Louise half-day tour out of Banff with a slightly questionable local company. I mean, all tours go to the same two lakes, right? Why one costs $174 per person and another just $40 is a mystery—until you see the bus. Think: straight out of a 1970s road trip movie.

But what the bus lacked in aesthetics, our tour guide Edward more than made up for in personality. A former Parks employee, Edward knew all the hidden paths, best photo ops, and fastest routes to the scenic overlooks. He kept us laughing, handed out cookies and cold water, and even offered to personally guide anyone who wanted a little extra insight at each stop.

(And yes, we drove all the way back to Banff this morning even though our campground was practically next door to Lake Louise. Why? Well, the ski area shuttle was fully booked and we had no idea when we planned this that “Banff” to “Lake Louise” would be a 45-minute drive… in the wrong direction. Tell me you didn’t do your research without telling me you didn’t do your research.)

Have you ever looked at a photo and thought, This has to be photoshopped? That’s Moraine Lake. Its striking turquoise color comes from glacial rock flour—fine sediment that reflects sunlight and creates an unreal shade of blue. We climbed the famous “Rock Pile” with a few hundred of our closest friends and snapped what might be the most surreal family photo of the trip.  Edward treated us like models, directing us to pose one way and then the other.

Though the cafe was closed by the time we got there, we wandered along the lake’s edge, away from the crowds. We waded in the icy water until it physically hurt. “Cold” doesn’t quite cover it—Moraine Lake hovers around 41°F. Swimming isn’t encouraged due to the fragile ecosystem (and also, hypothermia), but canoeing and kayaking are fair game. A few species of trout and whitefish call it home.

Next, Lake Louise. Also stunning, but far more commercial. The Fairmont Chateau sits right on its shores. For a mere $2,000 a night (year-round), you can wake up to luxury and alpine views, whether your vibe is spa treatments or cross-country skiing. The grounds were immaculate—and absolutely swarming with people. I took a solo walk to escape the crowds while Rob and the girls snagged a bench to take in the scene.

Like Moraine, swimming at Lake Louise is strongly discouraged unless you’re aiming for a polar plunge. But hey, back home people pay big bucks for an ice bath.

On the way back, Edward gave us a bonus stop at one of Banff’s best scenic overlooks. As we pulled up, a small herd of Bighorn sheep trotted by—an unexpected treat to round out the afternoon. All in all, our little bargain tour turned out to be a win.

We didn’t have much time or energy left for exploring the Town of Banff, but the energy there is noticeably different from Jasper. Banff feels more upscale, with fancy shops and nightlife. Jasper’s charm is its local, laid-back feel. Both deserve a longer visit next time.

Tomorrow, we head back to Calgary—fingers crossed the Jeep is still parked where we left it and we don’t have to bribe a Mountie to spring it from impound!

End of Day Stats:
Mileage:
115
Impossibly blue lakes visited: 2
Rubber Ducks Deployed: I’m not even going to say it.
Filters Applied: 0

Cue: No Rain by Blind Melon—because today was sunshine in every sense.

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